Food Review: Mumbai's Sukoon Lives Up To Its Name By Offering A Peaceful Ambience Amidst Soul-Gratifying Food

Food Review: Mumbai's Sukoon Lives Up To Its Name By Offering A Peaceful Ambience Amidst Soul-Gratifying Food

Nestled in the by-lanes of Bandra, off Carter Road, is this garden of peace – Sukoon by Joshi House

Shruti PanditUpdated: Sunday, May 19, 2024, 11:43 AM IST
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Nestled in the by-lanes of Bandra, off Carter Road, is this garden of peace – Sukoon by Joshi House. A garden welcomes you with the sounds of chirping birds. Tables are strategically placed amidst trees. The serenity is a perfect backdrop for their all-veg sattvik menu.

As I wait for Chef Tanvi Shah, they serve Green Low, a fresh juice made from beetroot, celery, green apple and ginger. Fresh as it can be, it was very refreshing. The server recommends Avocado and Mango Salad and Mango Sourdough Toast as I wait. The sourdough is homemade and the toast with mango slices that rest on cashew cream is tasty. The salad is a mix of mango, avocado, walnuts, berries, mix greens and lemon-maple dressing – crunchy and delicious.

“The thought behind the menu is to serve food that comforts the soul, is light for the stomach and pleases the palate. Most of the menu is inspired by mother and grandmother,” says Chef Tanvi Shah. “It is after trials for more than a month that we finally zeroed down on the menu.” It is a vast menu with vegan options as well.

Tanvi insists that I try the Jowar Bhel – jowar pearls, cucumber, tomato, and pomegranate beads, mixed with date-tamarind chutney and avocado cream. “We soak the jowar overnight, cook it under pressure and then mix the cooled pearls with the rest of the ingredients,” Tanvi shares the secret. And I am glad I took her recommendation. A delicious combination of flavours. Next on the table is the Khichu Chaat – Tanvi’s take on the popular ragda-pattice. They use khichu (steamed rice flour balls) instead of the potato pattice.

The break from food comes in the form of Mango Turmeric Kombucha. Followed by Broccoli Almond Soup – a tasty soup that balances the flavour of broccoli with just the right quantity of almonds. Thukpa, that follows, is a surprise. This is spicier than the Thukpa I have tasted earlier at varied places including the Indian border. And this Indian spiced version is a delight to the typical Indian palate.

One should surely try the Sweet Potato Gunpowder Wedges – sweet potato wedges that are liberally sprinkled with gunpowder and served with gunpowder and ghee. Little spicy, but a great appetizer to go with their juices or mocktails. Another appetizer worth trying is the Lobia Hummus which has desi ghee on top instead of the traditional olive oil giving it a distinct delicious taste. The hummus is served with homemade flaxseed crackers, chickpea falafel and pickled vegetables. The falafel is perfect in texture and taste.

They have quite a choice in the mains with vegan and Jain options. You can choose one of the gravies along with Blackwheat roti Malabar Paratha or rice. Or choose the Sukoon Thali, which has most of the gravies. The thali has Vegetable Ghassi, Hyderabadi Paneer, Kadhi Pakoda, a dessert (Aamras for the season), Rajma and rice. The Rajma is a milder, tasty, and Kashmiri version.

They have interesting non-Indian varieties in the mains as well. They roll their pasta in-house and are gluten-free. Their Pesto Pasta with hazelnut paste is tasty, satisfying and light on the stomach. They also have Millet Maggie on the menu made from millet noodles, veggies and freshly ground garam masala. Kudo Millet Khichdi is a must if you are a khichadi fan like I am. Kudo instead of dal gives it a unique taste. The consistency was soft and moist; just the way I like it.

Tanvi has curated some unusual desserts. The Vegan Chocolate Mousse is a speciality. Fifty-six per cent dark cocoa and cottage cheese made from watermelon seeds. This delectable mousse is served with berries. Another interesting dessert is I Need Coffee – chickpea halwa served with cashew cream, topped with chikmanglur coffee caramel. A delicious medley of flavourful textures.

Take Tanvi’s advice when you order. And remember that the portions are quite good.

Rs. 1700/- for two

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