Indian heritage is rich. Launched by siblings Mehandee Meera Dureja and Karanveer Dureja in 2019 in Faridabad, Haryana, this footwear brand works to keep Indian traditional footwear heritage intact and celebrate it. They are going back in history to discover and revise the age-old craft of shoemaking, while giving local artisans the helping hand to keep the craft. They are fashioning handmade footwear for men and women which range from mules, slip-ons and sneakers to high-tops.
The co-founder Meera Dureja, in an interview with The Free Press Journal, speaks on the journey of Banjaaran Studio and more.
Excerpts from the interview:
How did Banjaaran Studio come up?
My journey into shoe design and the inception of Banjaaran unfolded organically. Without formal training in footwear design, my passion led me to immerse myself in the world of traditional artisans. I sought guidance from skilled craftsmen in local workshops and factories once I realised my aspiration to pursue this craft. Seven years ago, I wandered the lanes of old Delhi with a shoe sketch in hand, to find a leather worker who could transform my design into a tangible wearable product. Little did I anticipate the profound experience that awaited me — witnessing my vision materialise in the practised hands of a 55-year-old shoe artisan. This encounter laid the cornerstone of Banjaaran Studio, marking a pivotal moment in my personal and professional creative journey. The name ‘Banjaaran’, translating to ‘nomad’ or ‘wanderer’, embodies our ethos. Our studio reflects the fearless world I sought to inhabit — a space traversing realities, fantasies, communities, cultures, and dimensions.
Why has the history of our footwear been overlooked in the Indian market?
The origins of the modern leather industry go back to the British government’s direct support, marked by the establishment of the first modern tanning facility in 1857 (Kumar, 1997). Its foundations remained deeply rooted in traditional artisanal practices. The industrial policy of 1967 reserved the leather industry, including footwear, for the small-scale sector. It wasn’t until the late 1970s and early 1980s that 100 per cent export-oriented, larger-scale footwear industries gained prominence before the de-reservation of leather industries in June 2001.
Recent structural reforms have introduced incentives and led to the development of modernised production centres. The Ministry of MSME in India has championed clustering across the footwear sector, fostering cooperation among firms and collaborating with the government to stimulate sectoral growth. Initiatives like Make in India have significantly broadened horizons for expansion and growth. Despite the leather industry’s considerable input into the Indian economy, the nation’s global trade share remains limited. However, due to its labour-intensive nature, the sector continues to play a substantial role in employment.
What are the challenges for someone like you?
Embracing our chosen path poses its challenges, yet it offers immeasurable rewards. In an era dominated by machine-produced shoes saturating the market, we find ourselves in constant competition. The uniqueness of crafting every shoe to order inevitably leads to longer product lead times compared to instant purchases. Regrettably, the art of crafting handmade footwear is dwindling, overshadowed by the rapid influx of fast fashion and machine-made goods, stripping livelihoods from communities deeply rooted in shoe making. Banjaaran Studio’s ethos centres on employing and supporting minority communities with generations of expertise in footwear craftsmanship. This symbiotic relationship ensures them a reliable income — an aspect we find profoundly gratifying.
Our dream is to revolutionise footwear design, crafting exceptional, handcrafted shoes that carry the pride of India. This journey is about empowering marginalised communities of skilled artisans, preserving their traditions while infusing innovation and passion into every step.
Your first collection, Mad Mob, has quite a fascinating background, please tell us more about it.
Throughout history, mental illness has often been wrongly associated with demonic possession. Exorcism was commonly used as a treatment for those deemed demoniacs. Surprisingly, it seemed to bring some relief to mentally distressed individuals.
‘Mad Mob’ emerged from my desire to articulate my struggles on paper. The concept was born from my mental health decline during the 2020 lockdown. I envisioned my mind as possessed by these chaotic entities. I began sketching based on how that possessed mind might manifest in the vibrant Banjaaran Universe. These artworks were then featured in creating a collection of shoes that truly embodied my experience.
