When one decides to visit franchise of a restaurant that’s been declared one of the best 50 in Asia for nine consecutive years, one feels a little pre-overwhelmed. But thanks to Raina, Pankhudi and team, I was comfortable from the moment I came near the hostess’ desk.
The ambiance is comfortable and soothing to the eye. Art deco is the theme. The main dining area has sofas (love seats) facing the glass walls that look over the Fountain of Joy at the NMACC. If you choose to be there at dinner time, then you will be lucky and get the show free.
The restaurant boasts of presenting Indian cuisine in a contemporary way. Their a–la–carte and tasting menus are testimony enough to the claim. The Vegetarian and Non-Vegetarian Chef’s tasting menus have some common items like starters and desserts.
Hundred Layer Paneer |
Let’s talk about the tasting menu first. Though I have to admit that I chose to eat some veg and some non-veg options and therefore has to skip a few from both the lists. Don’t fret over the small portions. By the time you finish the tasting menu, you will need an extra stomach.
Tasting menu starts with Blue Cheese Nan – cookie sized naans filled to brim with Danish blue that oozes out with the first bite. These are served with Indian Accent Shorba – a sweet corn soup with hint of coconut milk and a dash of our garam masala and freshly ground pepper. The combo is perfectly matched. The blue cheese fan in me was overjoyed with the preparation. But if you don’t like the blue cheese, please do tell the staff in advance so that they can offer you an alternative.
The starters that follow were an artistic presentations of street food of India. “The idea is to present Indian food differently,” explains Rijul Gulati, Head Chef at Indian Accent. “And we wanted to bring to Mumbai something that not all Mumbaikars are familiar with. That’s the reason you will items from Kashmir and things like Churan ka Karela, which are not so common dishes.”
Smoked Duck Shaami |
While the Chhole Bhature was a mini bhatura tart filled with chhole, the deseeded and cooked karela dusted and lightly filled with churan (Churan ka Karela) is neatly placed on a rice cracker. Both were served on a bed of un-popped corn and melted in the mouth. Don’t even think twice before eating the karela, even if you are otherwise averse… you will fall in love with this. The Dilli Papdi Chaat was a delight with the chaat on a boat shaped puri – tangy, mildly spiced and gearing you up for the next course.
Worth trying starter from the a-la-carte was the Atta and Semolina Panipuri with Jhaal Potato and five varied flavours of water – normal, pineapple cumin, pomegranate, tamrind and buttermilk.
Chhole Bhatura |
While the non-vegetarian option was a Murgh Malai, I opted for Stuffed morel, gobindobhog and mushroom payesh, with summer truffle shavings. The Morel was served on base of tasteful mushroom sauce along with the special rice from Bengal. Chef finished it on table with generous fresh shavings of summer truffle imported from France. The flavours were delicate and subtle.
Smoked Duck Shaami topped crispy Sevai that had miniscule berries with Barberry chutney on the side was the next course. Veg option was Beetroot and Peanut Butter Chop. The Shaami with crisp sevai, was a relish. The shaami nearly melted immediately while sevai slowly dissipated giving the palate time to savour every flavour.
I was slightly confused about the next course – veg or non-veg. Decided on both! Herb Lentil Vada (their version of medu wada) was served with Thengai Paal Rasam (coconut milk with rasam spices) sprinkled with rice puffs that gave a nice crunch to the otherwise smooth textured dish. Again, deliciously subtle. The non-veg option, highly recommended by everyone and now endorsed by me as well was Pulled Lamb Dumpling in Aab Gosht sprinkled with rice puffs. The aab gosht – Kashmiri milk-based curry with lamb jus – was just the right base for the dumpling and reminded me of the Wazwan style of cooking. Getting is right is difficult as it is important to get the flavour right while ensuring that the milk doesn’t go bad.
Daulat Ki Chaat |
Next dish served was not from the tasting menu, but from a-la-carte. Meetha Achaar Pork Ribs were well marinated pork ribs tossed in raw mango achaar (chhunda for many) and served with green apple slice and aam papad slice. Just rightly cooked meat with the amazing accompaniments stumped me.
The palate cleanser came in a cute little pressure cooker. “Pressure cooker is something that no Indian can live without in any part of the world. We wanted to bring that element to the restaurant,” explains Rijul. The pomegranate and churan sorbet was the much needed break before I went on to the main course. The Kashmiri Hundred Layer Paneer with tamatar chaaman and Nadru is recommended, but I went for the Gun Powder Prawns served with raw mango curry served with red rice. All main courses are served with Cucumber Raita, Black Dairy Dal and Kulcha. The difference between the usual Kali Dal and dal here is the tanginess and extra cream. Go for the veg kulchas and avoid the Bacon Kulcha. The Wild Mushroom Kulcha is a must though.
Anar-Churan Sorbet |
Desserts has always been Indian Accent speciality; especially the Daulat Chaat. Badam Halwa Pie topped with cranberries and served with Cheeni Malai ice cream is a gratifying medley of flabours and texture. Mishti doi cannoli and Pista ki Lauj are worth indulging.
You might just need another visit to try something else from the a-la-carte menu, though I guarantee you that you will be tempted to.
Average cost for two: Rs. 7500
