Submerged under volcanic ash when Mount Vesuvius erupted in 79 AD, Pompeii is one of the most visited archaeological sites in the world. UDAY K. CHAKRABORTY explores.
In my younger days, I had read about Pompeii in my history book and the impression this made was so great that I was determined to get there one day to see it for myself. And now here I am, alighting from a local train from Naples, via Sorrento, to reach Pompeii Scavi station that exclusively serves the famous archeological site.
Pompeii s is one of world’s most remembered natural disasters site. On one horrific day, August 24, 79 AD, its world came to a sudden stop with the explosive eruption of nearby Mount Vesuvius. Its inhabitants died under a cloud of Ash and poisonous gas, leaving behind a Roman city forgone in a time wrap, to be discovered many centuries later.
The commentary of our guide brought ancient Pompeii to life. Without him, much of what we are seeing would have had little or no meaning, but with his explanations, small details suddenly take on their true importance. He points out the ruts in the stone paths, explaining that these were caused by the constant passing of chariot wheels.
Images of Victims of Pompeii |
The placement of odd stones in the pavement that were raised above the level of the others suddenly makes sense as he explains that these were used in times of heavy rains. Water often covered the lower lying areas of the roads, when these stepping- stones kept the citizens sandals clad feet comparatively dry.
It soon became clear that Pompeii, in its day, was no ordinary town. This was a resort of the powerful, influential and wealthy of ancient Rome, a place equivalent to the very elite modern-day holiday retreats in which persons of influence and wealth had luxurious second homes. Here were lavish villas, restaurants, elaborate sporting facilities, shops and temples, making it perhaps the most elegant retreat outside of Rome.
Typical Streets of Pompeii |
Our guide continues his story, explaining how an earthquake in 62 AD had already rocked and damaged the town, but that much of the damage had been repaired in the interim. Then on that horrific day in 79 AD Vesuvius exploded, in an eruption of a force which would compete with even the biggest of today’s atom bombs.
We listen, mouth agape, as he narrates how the 20,000 inhabitants of Pompeii died and the town was buried by ash, much of what had been there perfectly preserved, people and animal perished and were covered by the rain of ash and mud which covered and concealed the town, preserving it for posterity. Bodies decomposed, leaving hollow space into which 20th century archaeologists pored plaster of Paris, enabling scientists to restore the shapes, sizes and position of those who had perished.
We came to the home of the two brothers Vetti, famous wine merchants whose wine jars (recognizable from the inscription of their names) were found throughout the Roman Empire, even as far as Roman Britain. Their house contains superb statues and frescoes. Our guide explains that the Vetti brothers, Restitute and Connive (identified by their seals), were panic stricken when Vesuvius erupted. Worried about leaving their fortune behind, and not prepared to leave their valuables in the large safe in their house, they emptied this with help of their friends and slaves but were caught by the ash, mud and poisonous gas as they tried to get away.
Pompeii and Vesuvius 1 |
In a nearby building known as the house of the Faun, the owners, also unprepared to abandon their treasures, gathered up jewels, gold bracelets, rings and brooches as well as a silver mirror and a bag of gold coins. Unable to get away through the gas and ash, they returned to the house still clutching their precious possessions, only to die there a short time afterwards. In several areas of Pompeii we see, either in glass cases or in parts are securely closed off with iron grills, the plaster castes of bodies found by the archeologists.
Our guide explains that the taverns and the homes of the wealthy were very lavish. The frescoes and printing in some of the suburban villas still show their beautiful lines to this day. The mosaic floors and the atrium gardens add to the impression of opulence. The arcade court of the gladiators, the market place and various temples round out the picture of life in ancient Pompeii.
Later we are shown the luxurious central baths, with their steam rooms and elaborate layout. Inside one of the large rooms is a fountain with an inscription of the politicians who donated it. Little did this man realised that so many people would still be looking at the inscriptions 2000 years later.
Remnants of City Centre |
So descriptive and detailed is our guide’s narrative that our group remains silent and awe-struck as he takes us deeper and deeper into the past and though the event of that terrible day. Walking down the narrow streets of Pompeii made me feel somewhat strange, a little like an intruder into other times and other lives.
Suddenly we are back in the Forum, the tour is over. Silently, I exit this historic site, deep in thought and overcome by this profound experience. I realise that while Pompeii is a city which met a sudden death, it will never die from world’s memories.
