Into another age, another world, says TENSING RODRIGUES.
That is what you feel when you find yourself in the Latin Quarters of Panjim, Goa – the area that still has its old Portuguese ambience. Panjim is usually far less known and less frequented than the other destinations in Goa like Calangute, Anjuna, Palolem or Morjim. But it is a convenient place to put up in, if you wish to make a quick tour of the destinations around; for it provides quick and easy means of transport to most of the popular sightseeing spots.
The Candolim – Baga – Anjuna – Vagator beach stretch (13 km) is just 7 km away to the north across river Mandovi; and the southern beach stretch of Bogmalo – Colva – Mobor (26 km) is 13 km away across river Zuari. The Old Goa church complex is 8 km away and the Ponda temple complex (Mangeshi – Kavlem – Ramnathi) is 20 km away.
Once upon a time they said you need not see Lisbon, if you see Panjim. Many of my friends who have been to Lisbon in recent times reiterate it. But I prefer to compare Latin Quarters of Panjim to Malacca. Well, the comparisons have a historical basis, the Portuguese experience. But I shall not bore you with much history; let me take you on a more personal tour of the Latin Quarters of Panjim – its eating and staying places !
When in Panjim you will definitely like to savour the truly Goan flavours. For that I shall recommend to you some small joints that serve some really good stuff. From the main bus terminal at Panjim ask anyone for the way to the General Post Office; you will be walking across a small old arch bridge named Ponte de Linhares. This is the Panjim end of a 3 km long causeway connecting the suburb of Ribandar to the main city. The causeway, built in 1633, regulates the flow of saline water of the Mandovi River into the adjoining khazan lands.
As you go over the bridge and wait to cross the road, you will see an old corner building with a board Down the Road pub on your left across the road. Cross the road carefully and walk ahead; but keep the place in mind; I will tell you about it later. As you walk, you get a few old houses and then GPO on your left, followed by a chapel. This is where once upon a time tobacco used to be traded; and across the road is what used to be the Mint House.
Walk still ahead; leave the first alley going to your left; leave the second. As you walk, on your left you will see the Pedro Fernandes & Co. shop, a 1928 vintage music shop run by an old man and his sons, whose passion for music is part of the business; if music is your passion too, particularly the old western type, do drop in. Now take the alley that you get (third left from GPO), and walk a few meters and look for an old building with wooden galleries.
That is Hotel Venite, the place I would suggest you try. Their speciality is Chicken Cafreal. This is a dish you will probably get nowhere outside Goa; and Venite is one of the places that make it the best. Cafreal is supposed to have been first cooked by African soldiers (Kafirs) in Portuguese army. Venite’s other Goan fare like Prawn Curry and Goan Sausages is also supposed to be above the mark. The place is small, and you may not get a table; that is the only hitch.
If you proceed along the same alley and keep walking, you come to a junction where a road descends from your right; the place is called Corte do Oiteiro. Cross the junction and walk straight into another alley. A few meters down on your right you get Viva Panjim. If you have difficulty in finding the place, ask for Mary Immaculate School; this restaurant is bang behind the school. Another good place for Goan fare.
If you are ready to walk with me a few more steps, I will show you another place; this time not an eating place; but a fabulous place to stay. This is an accommodation complex called Panjim Inn; of course the hotel has its own restaurant too. Lined along a narrow road running down from Altinho hill to the Ourem Creek, here is where you will really find yourself into another age, another world. The complex has an art gallery too, and an antiques shop.
This is veritably the limit of the Latin Quarters. But, I would suggest you venture further. Walk along the road that now goes winding along the foot of the hill, and you pass through what I would call the old Hindu quarters. On either side of the road you see houses that once belonged to the Hindu gentry. At a sharp turn, you get a fabulous view of the Maruti Temple in its crimson glory; at its foot is an old fountain, for which the Portuguese named the locality Fontainhas. Here a large fair gathers on Chaitra Pournima; if you happen to be there that day or any of the following few days, do not miss the stalls selling the typical Goan sweetmeats and sev.
A few meters ahead, on your right is Baba’s Wood Café, run by Maria, an Italian lady from Milan. It has an attached antiques shop. Specially try their thin crust pizzas, spagetti a la vongole and tiramisu; they say it is just like in Roma ! Even Europeans have been raving about it.
You will remember, I had promised to tell you something about Down the Road pub that you got just as you came down the Ponte de Linhares. This is a pub like any other; but the Chinese cuisine is managed by a chef of long standing – if you eat one of his preparations you will know why Chowpatty Chinese is not Chinese at all.
