On a short trip to Kolkata, SAPNA SARFARE checks out and falls in love with the unlikeliest of tourist sites – the South Park Street Cemetery.
It is amazing that sometimes all it takes to discover or rather rediscover a fascinating place is a small (in my case, big) reference. In travel, such references are very vital. The traveller in me needs a motto to make my trip a trip to remember. Kolkata has always been on my list of places to visit. The culture, films, language… everything makes me want to think of this quintessential Bengali city as my own. Unfortunately, my first trip to this fascinating place was on a return trip for just one-and-a-half day.
This meant trying to squeeze in as much interesting sight-seeing in this trip as possible. I decided that one of my visits has to be to a place which fascinated me and made my friends rethink of my sanity – South Park Street Cemetery. While others decided to visit popular destination, I got myself a tourist spot of a lifetime.
Zeroing in on the dead
There are Feluda lovers and there are some who think Feluda is the name of a hot beverage. For those uninitiated, he is a memorable young detective created by acclaimed filmmaker Satyajit Ray, on the same line as Sherlock Holmes. Feluda or Pradosh Mitter lives in Kolkata, solves cases with his super powered brain and is aided by young cousin Topshe and a crime fiction novelist Lalmohan Ganguly aka Jatayu. Crime or detective fiction lovers are acquainted with this legendary character and his sensational stories. Though originally in Bengali, translation work has helped him reach non-Bengali readers with ease.
And in one of his stories Gorosthaney Sabdhan (Beware in a Cemetery), Feluda solves a mystery related to early British-era Kolkata and the connection of a 1800s British family with connection two present families. In this story, the three musketeers go a fascinating cemetery from the 18th century where the last burial happened in the early half of the 18th century. It is called South Park Street Cemetery and it is an interesting place to understand the city and its connection with our British past. Being a big fan of Feluda stories, a stopover at the cemetery was a must to relive the story.
Going towards it
The name says it all. South Park Street Cemetery is located in the much-sought locality – Park Street. The place is known for its happening eateries and nightlife. If you value the coolest lifestyle in Kolkata, this is the place to be. And after a neat meal at the renowned eatery Flurry’s, I choose to walk down the Mother Theresa Sarani. The walk was interesting to see some colonial buildings and even old mansions, probably belonging to some landowners from bygone eras.
The moment you see South Park Street Cemetery, you have a feeling that this large piece of land belonging to those long gone amidst modern buildings is otherworldly. You have to register your name at the entrance and voila, you actually feel like you have been transported to another era.
On entering
An early stand-alone cemetery not associated with a church, it started in 1767 and the final burial was in 1830. It is an amazing experience to see a heritage site from architectural point of view which has the combination of Indo-European and Gothic style.
Within the eight acres and 1600 tombs, ranging from regular burials with interestingly laid epitaphs, obelisks, and mausoleums to urns and more, it hits you that despite being a burial place, the place is so well laid out amidst a lot of trees and bushes. In fact, you will wonder if you have reached somewhere on the outskirts of the city. It is only when you notice the glass-covered skyscrapers around that you realise of the ground’s existence in the city.
Once inside, I automatically forget that I had walked miles to reach this place literally, as a tourist. The well-laid pathways took you from one tomb to another, each different from the other. The medium-sized tombs in various shapes and sizes intrigued you while the mausoleums look like a beautiful houses to sleep forever.
Those used to seeing the simple Christian cemeteries of today will the ones at South Park Street Cemetery to be lavish and showy for a burial place. Keep in mind that the era in which it was build was filled with India-obsessed Britishers who became Indians in their unique methods. It is pre-1875 British era at its grandest.
Some more discoveries
Try reading the names, designations (if belonging to the army), birth & death dates and you figure out volatile nature of life in that century. It was an age when India was a typical tropical country which meant the Britishers had even more difficult time living here than the Indians. Many succumbed to the weather. I was witness to this when I saw tombs of soldiers who had died at a young age of 18-20, and also women who came with their husbands to die within a few years. I felt a twinge of sadness to beautiful tombs of small babies and children.
While walking, I discovered that a lot of known Britishers found their final resting place at this place. One was of Sir William Jones who was the founder of Royal Asiatic Society of Bengal and also was a Supreme Court judge. He has the honour of getting the tallest monuments. And then there is the resting place for Henry Derizio, the young Anglo-Indian poet who has left a lasting impression on Bengali literature and thinking.
The third biggie is Major-General Charles Stuart, also known as Hindu Stuart. One can guess why he must have got a nickname like that. His tomb reflects his closeness to the religious beliefs he found in India. Some other names to be found here are Col. Vansittart, Lt.Col. Robert Kyd (a known botanist and founder of the Botanical Gardens), Lt.Col. Collin Mackenzie and more. I felt like walking with History around me.
Some more thoughts
The moment you step inside, the world stops outside and all you hear is silence. I found a sense of peace which might be unnerving for others. While burial grounds essentially are not places for tourism or even finding tranquillity, places like this cemetery will probably aid in changing your mind. To each his own is all I say.
Also those lying six feet underneath are more harmless than the world outside. Of course, you reconnect with history. Since the place is vast, there are green patches to sit down along with benches for your perusal. I found a range of people visiting the place – students, young couples, people just come in find some ‘me’ time and the quintessential tourists.
Though a remarkable place, I found its upkeep to be wanting. Despite being under the Archaeological Survey of India, it looks like the foliage has taken over the place to give a run-down place. Certain repair work should be carried. The typical office at the entrance is where one can get information booklets and more details.
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Information around the place
1. Reaching here is quite easy, as it is located in Park Street and is known to most cab drivers. You can try the trams or the subway to reach this place. Check for the nearest stop.
2. It is open between 8am-4.30pm on all days and one does not have to pay for entry fee. Make sure that you keep ample time aside to see this place in detail as the grounds are vast.
3. Park Street has some of the best eateries around to satisfy your hunger. Some of the big names include Mocambo, Peter Cat, Flurry’s, Moulin Rouge, Blue Fox, Marco Polo and more.
4. While you are here, you can also make a visit to the Asiatic Society, the Seventh Day Adventist Church, the old buildings and mansions around are a sight for sore eyes.
5. It is also connect with many other roads and areas. Nearby is Chowringhee Road while Park Circus is known for the Durga Puja pandals. Though not exactly nearby, you can easily reach New Market on Lindsay Street which is THE place for shopping in Kolkata.
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