Independent watchmaking isn’t a niche anymore—it’s the new centre of gravity in haute horlogerie. Few understand this shift better than Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser & Cie., the Swiss brand that is fiercely independent, proudly Swiss, and just the right amount of provocative. It stands for an uncompromising commitment to the craft of watchmaking. To understand this philosophy, you have to look back to 2017, when Moser protested the newly revised “Swiss Made” rules by removing the label from its watches altogether and introducing the satirical Swiss Mad Watch, a timepiece with a case made from real Swiss cheese. The brand argued that the updated legislation was too lax, and the cheeky watch was designed to be a statement piece—undeniably 100% Swiss without relying on a controversial label. Even before this, Moser had already chosen to remove its logo from the dial, shifting the focus entirely to craftsmanship and materials, including the brand’s signature fumé, minimalist dials.
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Perpetual Moon Concept Meteorite |
I caught up with Moser’s CEO Edouard Meylan at the recently concluded Dubai Watch Week 2025 (DWW) and dove into a free-flowing discussion on Indian collectors waking up to independent watchmaking brands like Moser, the opening of their Gurugram boutique earlier year—the brand’s seventh globally—and the latest novelties, including the Streamliner Perpetual Moon Meteorite, that was clearly one of the highlights at the Dubai Watch Weekend 2025.
DDW meets expectations
“My expectations were pretty high,” Meylan begins. “It’s my seventh Dubai Watch Week, and every edition has been better than the last. But this time, we’ve made a big jump — the number of people, the energy, the quality of everything. The food, the entertainment, the weather, the hotels—everything is perfect.”
Key launches of 2025
“We launched the Spiced Aqua watch before the summer,” he says. “It combines vivid turquoise and orange colours across several models, including a cylindrical tourbillon skeleton and a central second version. It’s a very summery watch and has been a huge success.” Two new references in the Flying Hours collection also debuted during Geneva Watch Days 2025. “We reworked the movement completely, so the hour display now performs an instant jump. One version comes with a beautiful aventurine dial in red gold—very much a dress watch—and the other, in steel with a white fumé dial, is sportier.” At DWW 2025, Moser unveiled two special pieces. “To celebrate the 75th anniversary of the Seddiqi Group, we have created two limited edition watches, both perpetual calendar calibre: 7 LM Perpetual EVO pieces and 5 LM Perpetual Baguette Diamonds pieces, limited to seven and five pieces only. There is also a new retrograde movement—a 30-second retrograde. It features a sand-fumé dial and is limited to 20 pieces.”
But the highlight at DWW was the watch on his wrist. “Yesterday, we launched the Perpetual Moon—a highly accurate moonphase, deviating by only one day in 1,027 years. It measures 40mm, features an automatic movement with a three-day power reserve, and is crafted from steel. And what’s truly special is the dial—a meteorite base with gold finishing. It works beautifully.” While the watch is not limited, the production remains restrained.
Moser’s take on ‘quiet luxury’
Best known for its minimalist, logoless dials, what began as a rebellious statement has since evolved into a defining signature. “Quiet luxury is not for everyone. It’s for people who understand. For me, this is a continuation of traditional watchmaking, where signatures were engraved on the back,” Meylan explains. The brand believes its watches are art, not just instruments for telling time. “Our watches carry a lot of craftsmanship, and I wanted to communicate that. When you put a name, ‘Swiss Made,’ water-resistance details, and all the instructions on the dial, you treat the watch like a tool, not an artwork.”
New strategy in a turbulent market
“Our strategy has always been diversification—30% Americas, 30% Europe, 30% Asia, 10% Middle East. It fluctuates slightly, but the balance protects us.” Despite global uncertainty, the brand has had a strong year. “At the end of Q3, we’re growing at 9%, and sell-out is up 14%. October was our best month ever.” We ask Meyan what's working for them, and he says, “I can’t say exactly, except that we’ve stayed active. When a year looks difficult, you can either cut investments to protect the bottom line or you can push. If you cut, the brand slows. If you invest, you gain visibility, and if the market isn’t as bad as predicted—and I don’t think it is—you benefit. The U.S. is still growing; for us, it’s up 50%. Mexico is up over 200%. There is an opportunity.”
H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Spiced Aqua |
Plans for the Indian market
Meylan believes that India has huge potential. “We have just opened our latest boutique in Gurugram. Since 2016, I’ve seen collectors become more knowledgeable and appreciative of independent brands. Their tastes are evolving from predominantly yellow gold to steel and integrated bracelets, in line with global trends.” He also sees a younger, globally connected collector base. “Social media crosses borders, and today, people are influenced by the same things everywhere. India used to be a market where collectors were familiar only with the Patek Philippe universe. Now it’s becoming a golden era for independents.”
