Peptides, also called polypeptides, naturally occur in the skin, but they’re also included in many skin care products — and for a good reason. Peptides are amino acids that make up certain proteins needed by the skin. More specifically, collagen is made of three polypeptide chains, so adding peptides can stimulate your skin to make collagen. More collagen can lead to firmer, younger-looking skin. Your body makes collagen naturally. But over time, collagen production decreases, which can cause the skin to look wrinkled and rough, and dark.
Benefits of peptides
The collagen molecule is too large to absorb through the skin. But peptides can absorb into the skin where they can be used by the body. Incorporating peptides into your skincare routine has many benefits for the skin.
Improved skin barrier: The skin barrier is the body’s line of defence against bacteria, ultraviolet rays, pollution, and other toxins. The skin barrier can be damaged from over-exfoliation, exposure to cigarette smoke and other pollution, or even poor sleep. Peptides help build up a stronger barrier.
Reduced wrinkles: Collagen can plump skin and lips. When skin is firmer and plumper, wrinkles and fine lines will be less visible.
More elastic skin: In addition to collagen, peptides also make up elastin fibres, a type of protein. These fibres make skin look firmer and tauter.
Eases inflammation: Peptides can help ease inflammation, repair damaged skin, and even skin tone.
Can help clear breakouts: Some peptides are antimicrobial and can kill bacteria that cause acne.
How peptides work for skin
Peptides can penetrate the outer layer of the skin, so instead of sitting on top of the skin, they sink in deeper. You can think of them as messengers for the other cells. They send signals telling the cells to produce collagen and elastin.
Choosing peptide products
Pick the right form like a serum or a moisturiser that has prolonged contact with your skin. A cleanser, for example, won’t be as effective because it’s rinsed off.
Choose other ingredients wisely. Peptides work well in tandem with other ingredients like vitamin C, niacinamide, antioxidants, and hyaluronic acids. Using a peptide with an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) will make the peptides work less efficiently.
Look at the label. You ideally want to see peptides listed close to the top of the ingredient list.
Drawbacks
Peptides are often expensive
There are different kinds of peptides, and some won’t have any effect on the skin
Ask a dermatologist or another trusted source for recommendations, as the word “peptide” can sometimes be used as a marketing term
In rare cases, a peptide can cause an allergy
(Dr Usha Beloskar is the Medical Director, Sskin Savvy Advanced Aesthetics, Kohinoor Square Dadar, Mumbai)
