We visited Kashmir for the first time about 20 years back, when it was facing serious militancy related problems. Indeed, we crossed the scenic Banihal Pass with much trepidation in our mind. During that visit, on the usually crowded Dal Lake we were the only Indian civilian tourists, apart from another foreign group from Japan. But, even then its spectacular beauty, the famous Kashmiri hospitality and kindness of ordinary people were very much in place. We also noticed the selfless efforts of our security forces to bring back normalcy.
Afterwards, we visited Kashmir a few more times, and very happily found that slowly but steadily the bad memories of the turbulent are slowly fading, and once again people are flocking to this paradise on earth. Most of our domestic restrict themselves to the well known tourist circuit that include the Dal Lake, Mughal Gardens, Pahalgam, Gulmarg and Sonmarg.
Dal lake |
After the purge of Hindu Pundit population during the recent militant past, Kashmir gives an impression of a totally Muslim state, though from historic, social and cultural viewpoints it is actually quite mixed. In the early era, Kashmir actually was profoundly Vedic in culture which prospered to its highest level until 1370 AD, when Shah Hamden brought Islam to Kashmir. During Mughal era Islam flourished giving us fantastic Islamic art and architecture. Then during the British Raj, Islam was mainly the religion for general working class, not the ruling or educated elite class.
Away from the broad expanse of the central valley, with Srinagar at its heart, lies the Lidder Valley with the hill resort of Pahalgam at its upper end. While going to Pahalgam, colourful saffron fields of Pampore come first, followed by some of the archeological ruins of Kashmir’s Hindu past, before the Mughal invasion. Fabled towns from Vedic times like Anantnag and Verinag fall in this route. Kashmir had seen ambitious and competent Hindu rulers. Lalitaditya ruled in eighth century and to him is ascribed the glorious Sun temple at Martand, now in ruins. Next only to Martand rank the ruins of the Hindu temples of Avantipura, the creation of Avantivarman, another great Karkota king, who reigned in tenth century. These ancient ruins also reminded me that the most revered Hindu shrine of Sharda Peeth was indeed Kashmir and now located on the other side of the LOC. Indeed, Kashmiri language is also known as Sharda language by locals.
Kashmir’s splendid beauty is everywhere. Apart from the above mentioned well-known haunts, beautiful spots are scattered all over the valley. There are at least twenty other equally interesting destinations. Beyond the normal circuit are waters of Walur, Manasbal and Gandarbal lakes. Then there are Achhabal, Kakarnag, Verinag, Yusmarg, Tangmarg and Lolab Valley. All are exquisitely beautiful places but in Kashmir they are only “nice to include” places in tourist’s itinerary. Just consider Tangmarg – in any other country or even in the Alpine ones, this charming mountain town would get top billing, but in Kashmir, it’s just another beautiful stopover point. That is the extent and depth of Kashmir’s beauty.
Kashmir village |
Kashmir has special attraction during the winter. By mid-December, aptly called the Chil-I Kalan – the long period of seclusion, the snow starts to fall and soon cover the valley. In winter everything becomes quiet .The snowy peaks glitter in the sunlight and dusk cast deep violet shadows. And then come the winter tourists to watch the snowfall sitting in their log cabins in Gulmarg sipping Kahwa around blazing log fires.
It is not necessary to be too adventurous to sample the rural charm of the valley. We had only to stray a few kilometers out of the city to find picturesque villages and idyllic spots of unspoilt green with running waters, to refresh and rejuvenate the most tired mind. Between the tiny hamlets, goats, lambs, ducks and chicken amble across the road; and orchards are abloom with apple, cherry, pear and peach trees; and terraced rice paddies are interspersed with vignettes of villagers thrashing rice, chopping woods, or lazily lounging at the side of the road. It truly gives an impression of rustic paradise in slow motion.
Martand Sun temple in Anantnag |
Frankly, what always strikes us most about Kashmir is that it is not our typical North India. As soon as one crosses the Jawahar Tunnel – everything is so different – the sceneries, the people – their attire and lifestyle, the houses, the food and the shops.
Kashmiris call the whole thing Kashmiryat and every Kashmiri dreams to maintain this way of life. And, I can only agree, as it is this difference that makes Kashmir so enchanting to a visitor. While visiting Kashmir the rest of India must also reciprocate ordinary Kashmiri’s feelings and help them maintain its Kashmiryat that its people value so deeply in their heart.
