Forgotten Places of Mumbai: Take a tour of Afghan Church's gothic architectural marvel

Forgotten Places of Mumbai: Take a tour of Afghan Church's gothic architectural marvel

There are some places amidst us that hold great tales of history and we aren’t aware of them

Vaishnavi SharmaUpdated: Saturday, February 18, 2023, 04:02 PM IST
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There are some places amidst us that hold great tales of history and we aren’t aware of them. One such marvel is the Church of St. John the Evangelist, popularly called, the Afghan Church. It is a beautiful church located in Navy Nagar in the Colaba area of South Mumbai. It was built by the British to commemorate the First Afghan War and the disastrous 1842 retreat from Kabul. It was built between 1847 and 1858. The construction of the tower and the spire was completed in 1865.

It is possibly the only cathedral in India that was built as a war memorial during the British Raj to honour the thousands of individuals who died in the first Anglo-Afghan War back in 1838. It is alleged that Dr William Brydon, who was thought to be the only survivor of the war, lived to tell the tale. He had the church built in honour of the horrific conflict that also saw Indian troops from the East India Company’s Bombay Army sacrificed.

The Church is a wonderful feat of Gothic architecture in addition to its rich history. The Church, which was constructed of basalt and limestone, boasts magnificent arches and a sizeable interior. It is renowned for its numerous stained-glass display windows, several of which are currently undergoing restoration. William Wales, a 19th-century master in stained glass, created the east and west windows. The eight big bells of the bell tower, which are known to be the best in western India, are reported to have been imported from the Taylor bell foundry in England in 1904. A huge tower is another feature of the chapel.

The Church includes a chapel outside the main building and is surrounded by numerous aged trees and plants. A chancel is located beneath a tiny aisle of the chapel. “This church was built in memory of the officers whose names are written on the walls of the chancel and of the non-commissioned officers and private soldiers, too many to be so recorded, who fell, mindful of their duty, by sickness or by sword in the campaigns of Sind and Afghanistan, AD 1838-1843,” reads an inscription carved into marble in the chancel.

The government upgraded the Church to a Grade I heritage structure after years of disregard. The majority of the Church is currently inaccessible since it is undergoing repair.

On one end, though, the coverings have been removed, so people may still enter and take a look. The custodian on-site can provide visitors access to see the church’s interior.

Most of the individuals that visit the church are Navy Nagar locals because not many people are aware of it. However, it is also calm and a little eerie. The church is well worth a visit and an opportunity to honour the martyred souls in whose memory it was created, thanks to its stunning architecture and significant history.

Afghan Church should unquestionably be on your agenda if you enjoy visiting historical sites and the old Bombay area.

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