Amazing Bengali dinner at 25 Parganas is bound to make the Bongs get nostalgic and keep Bengali food lovers asking for more, writes GITA HARI.
We often rave about North Indian or South Indian cuisines conveniently leaving out food from the east, that is, West Bengal which has a rich cultural and traditional food fiesta to offer. There are two segments – East Bengal natives called Bangals with roots in Bangladesh and the Ghotis from West Bengal, the capital of which is Kolkata – have different food habits yet ilish maach (hilsa) and chingri maach (prawns) are common favourites.
The food of West Bengal as in Kolkata or the parganas is showcased in 25 Parganas, the Bengali cuisine restaurant in Hotel Sahara Star, near domestic airport. The food here is distinguished by the liberal use of poppy seeds (posto) and of course mustard as in oil or paste.
The restaurant takes you through Kolkata’s history by displaying antique clocks, hourglass, outdated steam iron and other old mechanisms reminiscent of former Bengal besides of course Tagore’s literary works and coupled with ebony veneered walls and black and white chekered tiles on the floor remind you of Calcutta of yore. The show kitchen allows you glimpses of what’s cooking.
Bhaja or Bhapa (fish or veg steamed with oil and spices in banana leaf to give a musky, smoky scent) are starters and a good way to commence your meal would be Bengali delicacy Bhapa Ilish, Bhaja Betki of batter marinated crispy fried bhetki. On the vegetarian front we tried Vegetable Bhaja of raw banana, potato, eggplant and pumpkin fried in thin batter; chops are quite popular in Kolkata and so checking out Mochar Chop became primary for us.
It was deep fried, barrel shaped cutlets and consisted of finely chopped banana blossoms with hint of spices – tasted superb especially when dipped in sweet-sour ambal or tauk chutneys which were truly tempting with their unique raw mango combinations. Can’t miss Motorshuti Chennar Chop for its tongue-twisting name itself besides its soft, melt-in-the-mouth patties of homemade cottage cheese and green peas.
Didmar Heshel Theke, from the granny’s kitchen, offered dishes that are unique for their palatable, homemade flavor. Main course had typical dishes like Sorshe Ilish, Maacher Jhol, Doi Maach with a choice of bhetki or hilsa, Galda Chingri of jumbo prawns.
Vegetarians need not despair as Chef promises some lip smacking dishes made of rare vegetables like Mochar Ghonto of tender banana flowers delicately spiced with a hint of coconut, Narkel Shorshe Potol cooked in which potol or parwal is cooked with mustard paste and coconut. “Aloo Posto,” explains the courteous and well-informed Manager Rakesh Roy, “is a traditional Bengali vegetable preparation of ridge gourd and potato cooked with poppy seed paste giving a cooling effect on your body especially during summer time.”
Ghanto had different vegetables cooked in panch-phoron and ground spices. The famous Shukto is made of diced and fried vegetables flavoured with ginger, mustard seeds, cumin and turmeric. Go for pumpkin stewed with baby potatoes in Mishti Kumror Aloor Dum or Aam Kashundi Bhendi – a pungent dish of pan friend ladysfinger (okra) in raw mango and mustard pickle. We had these with garam garam Luchis (puris), Radhaballobhi (tasty, crusty dal puri) and divine Gobindabhog Chaal (aromatic rice), offered to God during pujo in Bengal and were enough to transport us to seventh heaven.
Bengali and sweets are synonymous – be it their language, people or desserts. Just as Chef Prasenjit floors us with delicious fare from West Bengal, we make sure to keep place in our tummies for those irresistible mishti (sweet dish) – apart from Rosogolla, Mishti Doi (fermented and sweetened yoghurt) and Chennar Payesh (paneer & milk pudding), Chef comes up with something unique and that is Nolen Gurer Ice cream. Nolen or notun gur means the newly cultured date palm jaggery – reminded me of Amitabh Bachchan and Nutan starrer Saudagar – which is a favourite among Bengalis and here is a new invention of using it in ice-cream….yummy!
Gundi paan was a fitting digestive to this amazing Bengali dinner at 25 Parganas which is bound to make the Bongs get nostalgic and keep Bengali food lovers asking for more!
kolai dal
INGREDIENTS
l 150 gms urad dal
l 2 tsp ghee
l 1 tsp fennel seeds
l 1 tsp cumin seeds
l 1 tsp ginger chopped
l 1 tsp chilli paste
l Salt to taste
l Sugar to taste
METHOD
Wash the dal and boil it till it is cooked. In pan heat ghee make a tempering with the fennel seeds, cumin seeds, ginger paste and the chilli paste. Add the boiled dal to the tempering. Adjust the seasoning. Serve hot with steamed rice.
MOTORSHUTI CHENNAR CHOP
INGREDIENTS
l 120 gms green peas
l 80 gms paneer
(chenna)
l 1 tsp green chilli paste
l 14 tsp ginger paste
l Salt to taste
l 40 ml mustard oil
l A pinch garam masala
l 1 tsp turmeric
l 1 tsp cumin seeds
l 20 gms ghee
METHOD:
Coarsely blend the green peas and temper it with cumin seeds, ginger and chilli paste. Add turmeric powder and garam masala to this mixture. Grate the paneer and add it to the green pea’s mixture after it cools down. Make a patty and pan sear it on both the sides using the ghee. Remove when the patty is golden brown on both the sides.
