Folk food review: The restaurant in Kala Ghoda, Mumbai, has cuisines from across the country titillating the tastebuds

Folk food review: The restaurant in Kala Ghoda, Mumbai, has cuisines from across the country titillating the tastebuds

Can a small place be converted into a fine dining experience with native food?

Shruti PanditUpdated: Saturday, May 06, 2023, 09:35 PM IST
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Awadhi Kathal Ki Shammi |

Can a small place be converted into a fine dining experience with native food? Yes, it is possible. Chef Jasleen and her partners have proved that.

Folk, a small place in the by lanes of Kalaghoda, was first planned as a Kashmiri eating house, keeping in mind the success of Jasleen’s cloud kitchen. However, somewhere down the line, more dishes across the country were added and it became a showcase of Indian cuisine.

“The recipes here are contributed by everyone,” informs Chef Jasleen, who is the chief chef and one of the partners. “The partners, the cooks in the kitchen… just about everyone connected with the project.”

Bohra Gol Paani

Bohra Gol Paani |

The menu ranges from Maharashtra to Bihar and Bengal and Kashmir to Karnataka and Kerala. Start by choosing from the wide range of beverages. Mind you, no alcohol. The season calls for the Bohra Gol Paani — Bohri drink made with lemon, jaggery and sabza. You should also try the Pallipalayam Raw Rasam — tasty, tangy, cold version of the traditional rasam. And the Kachi Kairi Lassi.

Better still, ask for shots of all, except the Cold Kaapi, that doesn’t come as a shot.

Cold Kaapi

Cold Kaapi |

The food menu is quite interestingly divided into Pav Meals, Tandoor & Grills, Folk Meals and Desserts. Their Pavs are specially made like the Goan pavs — deliciously fluffy and full — not hollow from inside. You can pair them with Anda Bhurji, Aloo Tikki, Chicken Keema or the tasty Konkani Chicken Cutlet that I had. The chicken cutlet was so delectable and soft that it almost melted in the mouth. It was served with Goan Ros, garlic chutney and slices of onion marinated win lime juice and chilli powder. The combo was perfect.

Tandoor & Grills section has a wide choice as well. Amritsari Chole Kulcha, Chicken Tikka, Keema Kulcha, Mutton Galouti and more. What bowled me over was the Awadhi Kathal Ki Shammi. The jackfruit kebabs are served on a bed of naan along with jackfruit curry, salad, green chutney and raw papaya pickle. Every item on the plate is delicious with complex and tasty textures. It is a complete meal in itself with all flavours on the plate titillating your palate.

Gushtaba

Gushtaba |

Folk Meals offers a choice of 27 dishes, each one a meal in itself. It also has Daily Folk — a menu that’s the meal of the day. I was lucky to have Sweet Potato sabzi, Bhindi sabzi, onions, Bajra roti and lassi. The vegetables were truly of homemade taste. The Horn Ok Please meal is a tribute to the Punjabi dhabas and contains Paneer Bhurji, Dal Fry, Tandoor Roti, Mukkamaar Pyaaz (onion broken with a fist). The taste of each item reminds you of the dhaba meal. However, the rotis could have been a little crisper.

Rogan Josh

Rogan Josh |

If you are a non-veg eater, then don’t miss the Yakhani Pulao. This subtly flavoured Kashmiri mutton pulao is finely prepared and served with curds, salad and papad churi (small pieces of fried papad mixed with fried onions). Another treat for the non-veg eaters is the Rogan Josh. Not the usual onion-garlic version we know, but the Kashmiri Pandit Rogan Josh is discerningly prepared and served with rice, salad, onions and curds. The mutton curry is perfectly spiced and tasty. Fish eaters should try the Kokum Fish Fry – fried fish served with rice, fish curry, dal, prawn pickle and chutney.

Your sweet tooth is catered to as well. The Sweet Neer Dosai is something you should surely try. It’s a neer dosa stuffed with jaggery and coconut topped with sesame seeds. If you want something more elaborate, then go for the Mawa Cake that comes swimming in fragrant milk laden with pistachios. If you still have the appetite, then finish off with the Cold Kaapi.

Average price: `1500 for two

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