I am quite intrigued to know that one of the best chefs in San Francisco whose restaurant, Lord Stanley, won Michelin Stars five years in a row is in India on a two-city tour. Chatting with him is going to be a treat, I tell myself as I look forward to chat with him and the sommelier for the evening.
Rupert Blease, of the couple Carrie and Rupert, is in India to curate a special menu in collaboration with Nikhil Agarwal’s All Things Nice at the Taj Mansingh, Delhi and The Taj Mahal Palace in Mumbai. It’s good to know that he is as excited about presenting his curations to Indians as the people of India are to taste his food.
How did this collab come into place? “We had been discussing this since 2020,” informs Nikhil. “But thanks to Covid, everything fell apart and the idea went into freezer. However, we took it up as soon as it was possible and today, we are happy that Chef Rupert is here,” he adds.
Why Rupert Blease? “We continuously follow the star chefs of the world, especially the Bay area as a lot happens there. We always wanted to invite someone from San Francisco as we wanted to give fellow Indians unique experience, and our research told us that Rupert is one of the best things there.”
Though the menu is primarily western, most of the ingredients used are local. Rupert believes that using local ingredients is important to keep the food fresh and clean. “Local ingredients ensure freshness in the dish,” says Rupert. “And helps keep it simple.”
Simple! Simplicity is the most difficult and challenging thing in life, and especially in food. How do you define simple? “I agree,” says Rupert with a smile. “For me, less is more,” he continues. “I did indulge in complicated fare earlier,” he admits. “But as I evolved, I realised that you don’t need the third or fourth flavour if the first two or three give the dish the much-needed zing. So… now I restrict myself to minimal ingredients, and yet create something unique that’s a treat to any palate.”
Did you create something special for the Indian palate, keeping the complexities and variety in mind? “Well… Indians are used to strong flavours… strong as in spicy and complex. But the same ingredients can be used to create subtly flavoured dishes as well,” Rupert states. “I have used Lemon Grass and Mangoes in a couple of dishes, but in my way.”
Rupert believes in subtlety. He and his better half Carrie have worked in the best Michelin Star restaurants in Europe and UK, where they learnt the art of cooking and the importance of restrained and delicate cooking. “It is extremely imperative that you don’t allow anything to overpower when you are creating a recipe. And temperatures matter as well when it comes to taste, to which I am sure even Nikhil will agree.”
Nikhil continues the conversation, “Yes. Absolutely,” he says. Having the right temperatures for the wine in India… challenging, isn’t it? “It is and it’s not. We have developed systems that ensure the wines are stored in correct temperatures and served at right temperature as well,” he adds. “It is not just the right temperature; the airing is important too. For example, for this meal, we will double decant the wines and then rebottle.” Double decant? Why? “Because I think it is essential that the wines breathe at least for five to six hours before they are served to do justice to the wines.”
Wines first or food first? “Food,” Rupert and Nikhil reply in unison. “Of course, food first,” stresses Nikhil. “The wine should compliment the food, and not take over. And as a sommelier I always take care of that,” he adds.
“It helps to have a sommelier like Nikhil,” says Rupert. “There was a lot of back and forth, I have to admit. But we agreed on most of the things as Nikhil gave preference to the food and he paired the wines accordingly.”
Was there a lot of back and forth with the culinary team as well? “Yes. Because I had to ensure all that I need will be available. Accordingly, I got a few things with myself… which might be difficult to get here. The team had to be comfortable with the menu and ingredients as they were to assist me,” Rupert elucidates.
Why Taj? “Because it is Taj,” says Nikhil with pride and smile. “Taj hospitality is unbeatable. I am the second generation of Taj fans in my family. Their warmth always wins over the guests. They are the best hosts. And they have been extremely cooperative…”
Does Rupert share the opinion? “Oh… yes! Taj warmth is good. They were so nice and understanding and helpful. It has been a pleasure working them.”
Does he miss having Carrie with him on this trip? “Yes, of course, but with our five-year-old’s school, she couldn’t have possibly accompanied me. Though I am sure both would have enjoyed India and its hospitality,” he concludes.
Look forward to a delectable menu curated by Chef Rupert Blease paired with wines recommended by Nikhil Agarwal at The Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai on 22nd and 23rd April.
For more on the menu, stay tuned to The Free Press Journal. We will review it for you.
