When you talk numbers, beachwear is booming: research firm Allied Market Research valued the global swimwear market at US$18,454 million in 2017, and its report says the industry can expect healthy growth rates thanks to countries like India, where swim-wear is still a relatively nascent industry. According to industry figures, India’s swimwear market is pegged at Rs 150-200 crores and is growing at the rate of 15-20 per cent per year.
There was a time when if you wanted to buy a swimsuit, you had to wait till you travelled abroad (unless you were happy with cheap imported Bangkok pieces found on the grey market or the functional but not-so-stylish Speedo swimsuits).
Not so anymore. Many Indian fashion brands have entered the bikini market with innovative designs. For the last 30 years, Ajay and Kalpana Rajpal of Mezzaluna, have been crafting bespoke swimsuits that have delighted thousands of clients around the world. Their idea was to create a modern, homegrown label that would match global standards and fill the gap in the Indian market. The designer also meets clients at her studio in Mumbai for bespoke appointments. Priced at around Rs 6000+ the range spans swim-dress style to off-shoulder two pieces.
A sea change
“Indian women have changed their attitude to swimwear, and an awareness of health and fitness is taking over. Women are now more conscious of their bodies as well as more comfortable in their skin. Swimwear, too, has changed — with silhouettes like monokinis and even burkinis in certain parts of the world, it is now a category that caters to all cultures. Apart from the rising trend of destination weddings, there is the fact that travel, in general, is much more affordable and regular. And let’s not forget the power of Instagram,” says Kalpana of Mezzaluna.
Many of the Instagram pictures we see of women in swimsuits are taken at weddings. The destination wedding is, in many ways, what started making swimwear a part of the Indian girl’s wardrobe. With more nuptials taking place at resort properties, swimwear is now frequently a part of the bride’s trousseau. “With destination weddings on the rise, suddenly bikini tops are seen as more multipurpose among millennials, as they can double up as sari blouses. It’s the same with maillots; they can be worn as bodysuits with a sari by heavier women, while slender ones can wear them with pants and skirts,” Kalpana adds. Therefore, swimwear has managed to integrate itself into a traditional dressing.
The growth in the swimwear market can also be attributed to certain changes in retail. Retailers, of course, are responding to the increase in demand given the thriving travel industry in India. A clear indicator is that there are now over 100 direct flights to Goa daily from major cities in India. Holidays are no longer reserved for the summer. Swimwear in the Indian market is still uncharted waters.
According to Ajay of Mezzaluna, “Customer base is culturally curious, keeps health and fitness as a top priority and travels at least once a year.” Swimming combines travel with fitness. And what do people do on holiday — post a picture of the sand, the sea and their swimsuit, of course! “Social media is our water,” explains Ajay. And, in many ways, it is the online revolution that has helped swimwear become more accessible.
Neha Gupta, founder, Exchange4Fashion, says international luxury labels in India keep Indian women’s body shapes in mind. As per her experience with different designers she worked with, the ones that work are overlay styles; ruching to minimise a fuller bust; high-waist bikini bottoms for hip-heavy women; ruffles to accentuate a smaller bust and one-shoulder styles for broad-shouldered women.
The new age wave
Of course, for fashion, sustainability has to be a macro trend that is changing the way the industry looks at clothing. Now many brands work with ethical manufacturers and consumers buying mindful designs is at its core for products in love with earth.
Gupta emphasises on promoting sustainability in swimwear and equally promoting homegrown brands. As per Gupta, Indian women are more confident about themselves, they carry that confidence everywhere and that also reflects in the choices they make for swimwear.
And, as fashion starts to come of age in India, it is only natural that more homegrown labels will look at the category and more international niche swimwear labels will launch here. Hopefully, swimwear shopping will soon be as much fun as the holiday for which it is bought.
(Siddhart Haridas is the founder and partner of exchange4fashion@gmail.com)
