When the Yashoda-Krishna by Raj Ravi Verma came under the hammer couple of months ago, it triggered a memory. But I was not so sure… However, my recent visit to Vadodara and to the Laxmi Vilas Palace of Gaekwads, confirmed that the painting is inspired by a stain glass installation on one of the windows of Durbar Hall at the palace. Not a surprise as Raja Ravi Verma had his studio in the palace grounds where he also stayed for quite a few years. The studio still exists on the grounds of the palace, and the guide/buggy driver proudly talks about it while you tour the Laxmi Vilas Palace grounds.
The Laxmi Vilas Palace grounds are more than 30 times bigger than Buckingham Palace. Built by Maharaja Sayajirao Gaekwad III, during British Era, the palace itself is an epitome religious harmony. The architecture of the palace has representations of Hindu, Muslim, Christianity and Sikhism from outside. The grounds still have ruins of earlier Mughal architecture including a step well, dargah, and tombs.
Badodara Museum |
Part of the palace has been converted into a museum while rest is a personal residence of the current king, Maharaja Samarjit Singh Gaekwad and his queen Maharani Radhikaraje Gaekwad. The museum displays varied garments, arms and ammunition, paintings, sculptures etc. And of course, the Durbar Hall. You can choose your language on the audio device that they give you at the entry point. You can listen to the history of palace and the displays on it. Very informative. However, it needs to be updated as it still calls Late Ranjit Singhji as maharaja.
300 old banayan tree |
As I step out of the buggy after palace grounds tour, my tour mate, Rishi from Sayaji Hotels, hands me a bottle of buttermilk – an ideal drink in the blazing June afternoon sun. He has an entire icebox full of juice and buttermilk along with room temperature water to keep me hydrated throughout the day.
Vadodara, known as Baroda during the British Raj, is one of Gujarat’s most historic and culturally rich cities. It derives its name from an old Banayan tree – Vad – which stands today in the grounds of Laxmi Vilas Palace. The city flourished under the Gaekwad dynasty, which ruled the princely state from the 18th century. Maharaja Sayajirao Gaekwad III transformed the city into a centre of education, art, and progressive governance. Today, Vadodara’s grand palaces, museums, and architectural landmarks reflect its royal heritage and enduring contribution to Gujarat’s cultural and intellectual landscape.
Golden Mahadev |
Our next stop is the Tambekar Wada in Raopura, one of the oldest localities of Vadodara. Once home to Baroda’s Diwan Bhau Tambekar, the 140-year-old Tambekar Wada offers a glimpse into 19th-century Maratha architecture. Though weathered with age, the three-storeyed structure captivates with its murals, intricate woodwork, and courtyard-centric design. Its tempera paintings/murals, created with water-based pigments on dry lime, remain a significant artistic treasure.
Rishi takes me back to Sayaji for a scrumptious, well curated lunch by Chef Mahtab Raza Ansari. They remember that I love prawns and serve me chilly garlic prawns as the second course after a delicious soup. The prawns are delectable and don’t need any accompaniments to enjoy them. Desserts by Chef Vaseem Ali are tempting.
My journey in Vadodara started at Sayaji, where they welcomed me warmly with a good looking and tasty Blue Peabody and lime juice drink. The dinner that followed at the Kebabsville left me exhausted with choice and the portions served. Priancca, their Marcomm head, is a little apologetic that they can’t serve cocktails. But their juices and innovative mocktails are so good that one doesn’t miss alcohol.
My experience at Sayaji is enhanced by impeccable butler service by Divya Rawat, personalised linen, chocolates and fruits, and their turn-down rituals.
Golden Mahadev |
All nights (three) that I was there, they gave me three different drinks at night as a 'turn-down ritual'. The first night it was a fennel water, on second night it was a delicious Vanilla Almond Matcha, and on the third night it was a non-alcoholic Citrus Chamomile Toddy with a shot of honey. All three helped unwind and lull me into a deep slumber.
Next day starts with Mahadev! 100 feet tall statue of Lord Shiva in middle of the Sur Sagar lake that’s recently been gilded with 24 carat gold shines in the bright summer sun. We take a drive around the lake to see the statue from all angles. Simply amazing. The locals are very proud of it but have one regret. After it’s been gilded with gold they are not allowed to do boating in the lake.
We move on to the museum in Kamati Gardens/Sayaji Baug. The Sayaji Baug museum impresses me more than the Laxmi Vilas Palace with the sheer expanse of categories that they display. It hosts paintings, garments and jewellery from different eras and corners of India, coins, arms and ammunition, utensils of varied eras among other things. Though the main attraction remains to be the 71 feet blue whale skeleton and the Egyptian Mummy. There is a detailed explanation of most of the items.
Lunch back at the hotel is again well curated. I am joined by Anand Mishra, their Operations Head. The Suran Galoti, Broccoli Almond soup and the Punjabi Penne bowl me out. Even the Gulab Jamun cheesecake. The textures, the detailing, and presentation of all dishes can match a Michelin Star restaurant.
Evening is saved for Statue of Unity and Narmada Aarti. You can feel the grandeur when you see the statue from a distance. Though not as grand as Ganga Aarti, the Narmada Aarti has the same spirit and vibes. The building of Statue Of Unity has given rise to a new city – Ekta Nagar. Along with the new railway station, this township boasts of 5star hotels and tent-stays which turn an outing into an experiential stay.
Visit Vadodara to experience art, culture and unity. Stay at one of the offerings by Sayaji Hotels. They have one for all pockets!
