There is no dearth of South Indian restaurants in Mumbai — every gully has a joint dishing out crowd favourites like masala dosa, idli, rasam vada and filter coffee. However, Shankar Mahadevan's Malgudi stands out from the pack.
It is South Indian at heart, but with modern aesthetics. It's got a vast menu that's reminiscent of every South Indian home's large-heartedness. Expect bold flavours, with perfectly balanced spices and dishes that you'll keep coming back to. As the team would like to put it: "Walls full of kala (art), table full of saapadu (food) — ippadi podu and dive in!"
The classy interiors of Malgudi |
Shankar Mahadevan has always dreamed of bringing his love for food into the world, and Malgudi "is that dream taking shape".
He has taken "the warmth, memories and comfort of the South, and reimagined it with a contemporary voice — without losing the essence."
For him, the restaurant is inspired by "nostalgia and quiet joy". Some dishes are timeless. Others, gently reinterpreted. However, all of them are close to his heart. "South Indian food deserves to be seen, celebrated, and savored," says Mahadevan, and that's what he has set out to do with Malgudi.
The Filter Kaapi Barista |
The first thing that catches the eye as you step into the spacious restaurant in Borivali is their Filter Kaapi Barista (with brass tumblers stacked up neatly, and coffee machines letting off steam in the background). It's meant to help guide you in understanding your coffee better.
An illustration demonstrating the break-up of steamed milk, coffee, hot water and ice/milk foam/ice cream in every cup of your daily brew is the handy guide every home barista deserves.
Even the non-coffee lover in me stopped to admire it, to see what goes into each drink, be it the espresso, Americano, latte, macchiato, mocha, cappuccino and affogato.
Unsweetened sambar is not just the hero on this table! You can choose among three lovely chutneys (tomato, coriander and coconut) |
Malgudi is one of those rare city spots where the sambar is not sweet and the filter kaapi is served the way it should be — wonderfully frothy with all the right coffee notes, because "classics never go out of style".
Thumbs-up to their OG Kaapi or OG Chai. The flavours are bang on and will remind you of home. However, don't stop at the classics. Be prepared to be spoilt silly with their improvised concoctions including the Indiano (Americano's desi cousin), Kaapiccino (Hindustani cappuccino), Sulaimani Chai and Karupatti (palm jaggery iced tea).
Malgudi Picante and Sundowner |
Popular drinks remixed, but boy, they're delightful
A must-try mocktail is the Surya Dravya Tamil. It is a smokey concoction of Nilgiri tea, ginger, honey and rosemary, along with citrusy notes. The ingredients aid relaxation and will calm you down instantly.
Malgudi Picante is a 'spice assassin' with a guava-pomegranate base and fiery Guntur chilli powder on the rim. Non-alcoholic yet potent, this taste-forward cocktail offers a refreshing twist to your experience. The Sundowner almost resembles the tropical sunset with its bright shades and is pretty lit with a symphony of pineapple, agave, cinnamon and vegan foam.
For good reason, the Rasam Revival has earned the moniker of 'grandma's rasam gone rogue'. In every sip, you will get hints of tamarind, tomatoes, and coriander, however, the tangy decoction also known as the 'Elixir of Life' is presented like a mocktail and comes topped with a red chilli as a garnish.
Butter Pepper Garlic Water Chestnut and Podi Cheese Balls |
Deep-fried Podi Cheese Balls are unlike the ordinary golden cheese bombs with a gooey centre. The ones at Malgudi come with a dusting of gunpowder, and they are the nibbles you'd like to turn to while waiting for your next dosa to arrive.
The chefs have taken a simple ingredient like water chestnuts and turned it into an extraordinary dish. The Butter Pepper Garlic Water Chestnut will remind you of its prawn version. The only difference is that this one is way crunchier and tastes as delicious as it looks! These juicy water chestnuts stir-fried in butter, garlic and black pepper are crunchy, and the tadka of curry leaves gives them a lovely South Indian spin.
Masala Dosa |
The OG Mysore Dosa and Ghee Roast Podi Dosa are good, but the healthy Pesarattu is a super-hit. It makes for a winning combination with the three chutneys (tomato, coriander and coconut), that are served on every table. The Masala Dosa comes with potato sabji on the side, rather than inside. It's crispy, with not too much or too little butter, and melts right in your mouth with every bite.
An explosion of spice, the Ghee Podi Thatte Idli is a soft, fluffy idli doused in fiery podi and with a healthy tossing of ghee. Karnataka's heritage star, the Mulbagal Dosa is crispy on the outside, and soft inside.
Karnataka's heritage star, the Mulbagal Dosa |
One wouldn't expect soups at a South Indian joint, but the ones here deserve applause.
The healthy Moringa Soup, which is light on the tummy, feels like a warm hug. Bite into the juicy moringa pulp as you enjoy the soup with lentils and spices. The Jeera Milagu Rasam is more of a tangy broth with cumin, black pepper and tamarind.
What's interesting about the menu is that it mentions if the dish contains gluten, peanuts/nuts/dairy/soya beans/sesame/mustard and celery, in case of allergies and taste preference.
The South Khow Suey |
The South Khow Suey doubles up as a splendid, creamy soup that's full of texture thanks to the fried onions and roasted peanuts. Noodles out, vermicelli in! A squeeze of lime does wonders for the dish that's a meal in a bowl.
Bisi Bele Bibimbap is a must-have. It comes served in a stone pot and if the vibrant orange shade doesn't draw you in, its tanginess and spiciness surely will. It's got everything... rice, lentils, assorted veggies, peanuts and comes paired with a mixture and warm ghee. It's comforting in every bite.
Filter Kaapi Panna Cotta |
The dessert section is a nostalgic mash-up with Filter Kaapi Panna Cotta, Pal Payasam Kulfi and Kaki's Sheera.
Fans of rice kheer, why settle for the ordinary? Cool down with the creamy Pal Payasam Kulfi that can be enjoyed chilled, but on a stick.
Filter Kaapi Panna Cotta is a 'jiggly joy' combining the quivering wobbliness of the classic Italian custard with the flavour of the freshly brewed South Indian coffee, and looks elegant with the velvety, metallic finish.
Go down memory lane with the indulgent Kaki's Sheera and tempting Elaneer (tender coconut) Payasam. If the occasion is more of a celebration, opt for the Chocolate Pull-Up Cake. The gooey, chocolatey, luscious ganache promises a dramatic drip, and with the crunchy nuts, it makes for quite a show-stopping dessert for two.
Address: Malgudi, Ajmera Manor, Datta Park, Swami Vivekananda Road, Borivali West, Mumbai
(They have outlets in Chembur and Lower Parel as well.)
Cost for two: ₹2,500 for two
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