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One of the special celebrations in the Parsi community, Nowruz, or the Parsi New Year, is just around the corner. While the Parsi eagerly awaits this auspicious day, let's take time to reflect on the significance of Parsi cuisine in Indian culinary heritage. In this exclusive interview, Aanchal Chaudhary spoke to Chef Daugdo Farokh Ragina, a renowned expert in Parsi gastronomy, exploring the rich, flavourful traditions that define this unique cuisine.
From the intricate balance of spices to the heartfelt stories behind each dish, Chef Daugdo will take us on a delectable journey, revealing the essence of Parsi cooking and how it brings families and communities together during the Parsi New Year celebration.
You began your journey with Parsi masalas 15 years ago. What drew you to focus on these masalas, and how it helped your culinary journey?
15 years ago, my kids were young and needed my full attention, restricting me to work from home. Food has always been my passion, and my grandfather (Allan & Rustomji Bharda) used to cater for Parsi weddings. I started off making traditional Parsi masalas for my home and friends. My friends loved my masalas, and with their encouragement, I kickstarted my journey in the culinary world with Parsi cuisine.
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How does food play a role in Parsi cultural rituals and ceremonies?
Food plays a significant and symbolic role in Parsi cultural rituals and ceremonies. Parsi weddings and navjotes are elaborate affairs with multiple rituals where food is central with a grand feast featuring a variety of Parsi dishes such as 'patra ni machhi' (fish wrapped in banana leaves, 'saas ni machhi' (fish in sweet and tangy white sauce), 'sali boti' (meat with potato straws, 'dhansak' (a lentil and vegetable-based meat dish, and numerous sweets and desserts like 'lagan nu custard', falooda, 'ravo' (semolina dessert) and 'sev' (sweet vermicelli).
Food also plays an important role in 'jashan' (thanksgiving ceremony), the new year, death anniversaries, 'gahambars' (seasonal communal festivals) and daily prayers and rituals.
Can you share the story behind the iconic Parsi meal, Dhansak?
Dhansak is a wholesome meal that is enjoyed at lunch on Sundays in many Parsi homes. It is the Parsi interpretation of dal - rice with meat and vegetables slow-cooked with toovar dal and spices. The thick dal is served with aromatic caramelised rice along with 'kachumber' - a salad of chopped onion, tomato, cucumber, and carrots, typically seasoned with chilli, coriander, jaggery, salt and vinegar.
What are the traditional sweet dishes savoured during Parsi festivals?
Any Parsi festival is incomplete without 'sagan ni sev' - sweetened vermicelli and sweet curd for breakfast to start the day. A popular Parsi dessert served at weddings and Navjote ceremonies is 'Lagan nu custard,' which literally means wedding custard. It is a rich custard made by baking reduced milk mixed with beaten eggs and sugar with flavours of nutmeg and cardamom and served as dessert.
Are there any lesser-known Parsi dishes that you think deserve more recognition?
A couple of lesser-known Parsi dishes that come to mind are 'kamodio kan ma gosht' - fried purple yam slow-cooked in a rich mutton gravy and 'sakaria kan ma gosht' - sweet potato slow-cooked in a rich, thick mutton gravy. I don't think too many Parsi youngsters of today would have heard about these dishes.
How do you balance preserving traditional Parsi recipes with the need to innovate and keep up with modern culinary trends?
I have endeavoured to preserve the traditional Parsi cuisine and recipes that have been handed down from generation to generation in my family. In the hustle and bustle of life today, a lot of young Parsis have lost their connection to traditional Parsi cuisine. Through my cuisine, I attempt to keep that connection alive as well as introduce others to traditional Parsi cuisine.
What's special about the ‘BAWA BHONU: A Parsi Feast’ pop-up at the Courtyard Marriott to celebrate the Parsi New Year? And, why should one visit it?
The 'Bawa Bhonu': A Parsi Feast pop-up at the Courtyard Marriott is my small attempt to introduce and promote Parsi cuisine to people who have always been curious about authentic Parsi food but do not have many avenues to taste it except if they have a 'Bawa' friend.
It is my humble request to everyone to come and taste the flavours of Parsi cuisine in the myriad of dishes that will be served at the pop-up from 8th to 18th August at the Courtyard by Marriott, Andheri.
How do you see the future of Parsi cuisine in the global culinary scene?
The future of Parsi cuisine in the global culinary scene appears promising with its unique flavours and heritage. With the interest in diverse cuisines, cultural preservation and revival and the use of social media and digital platforms, there is greater access to Parsi cuisine, and anyone interested can try their hand at Parsi cooking. While there is a significant growth potential, there are also challenges to maintaining authenticity and ensuring that traditional cooking techniques are preserved.
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