When a dream comes true after four years, the happiness knows no boundaries… and that’s what happened to Chef Dhriti and Chef Sabby when Ankit Chona and Chaitanya Rele decided to back their dream and help them open Hearth at Churchgate.
Concept of the restaurant is simple – hearth, as in the grounding factor at any home, place where everyone gathers together and eats – and as in fire that keeps the home warm. The menus reflect innovative approach to traditional dishes in presentation and in cooking.
Bell Me Up |
“Idea is to serve food inspired by fire – fire in the belly and fire in the heart – with affection and care. Some dishes are easily recognisable, some new… but all, we hope, are satisfying,” says Chef Sabby.
The bar, managed by Mohsin, takes the baton forward with simple but complexly flavoured cocktails that make you want more. But my benchmark cocktail has to be the first one – a classic Negroni. And they are good with it.
Meanwhile, as I wait for the starters, they serve the Hearth Signature Bread with tomato and green herbs butters and a delicious cashew n peppers dip. Best thing to start with so that you have a base for the cocktails.
Dhriti, Sabby and team make their breads, dips, sauces, everything in house. Try their Pumpkin & Foccacia as well. It’s garnished with dill that add to flavours of sumac onion and green garlic.
Starter is the Sunchoke & Shishito grills. Sunchoke has malted barley glaze. Served with curry leaf creme that’s fresh on the palate. The spiciness of Shishito peppers is matched by smooth bland sunchoke and the dip cools the palate while adding to the flavours. Next from the fire is Shrimp & Crab skewers. Crab n shrimp meat on skewer served with crab aioli and thin, crispy leek that gives the crunch to succulent meat.
It’s salad time and time for the second cocktail. Stracciatella & Stonefruit Salad – peach, berries, served on stracciatella cheese base. Pineapple balsamic dressing. Myriad textures that delight your palate. The sourdough toast adds to the textural delight. Fish lovers should go for the Hamachi & Aam Panna Crudo. Cured fish with green apple, oranges and dill garnish has aam panna gel on the top. Pani puri ka paani poured on it at the table gives it a distinguished tang that refreshes the palate.
Pesto Puttanesca Pie |
Both salads are recommended with Pink Panther – beet infused tequila finished with gondhoraj lime juice, honey with magic pop on the rim, and topped with soda. Refreshing, but slightly lime forward.
Lal Math is another tequila based cocktail. Tequila infused with red amarnath and finished with citric acid and a pour of ginger ale and parmesan crisp garnish. Subtle. Tequila comes last leaving a smoky palate. This pairs well with pork skewers and Nizam Pie – the petite pizza that uses sourdough as base. Toppings include seekh kebab and haleem. Could have had more haleem to make it complete and more mouthful. However, the nearly melt in the mouth base and wafu sauce that accompanies it makes up for this glitch. Pork skewers that come with pork fat crisps are a taste n texture delight.
Pork Belly & Rice |
BA-BR-BU is another cocktail that can pair with these dishes. Rum is sous vide and infused with bacon for more than four hours, fat washed and clarified with brown butter , finished with citric and tonic water with a bacon leather garnish. Distinct flavours. But recommended only for the adventurous ones. You can try this with the Grilled Red Empress Snapper as well. Grilled red snapper is served with vadouvan sauce, topped with pork n prawn lab, subtly spiced. Vadouvan sauce reminds of Maharashtrian metkut with sauted onion. Flavourful.
Pork Sausage & Pepperoni Skewer |
In the smalls (First Crackle), vegetarians should surely try Smoked Garlic Potatoes & Aged Cheese. Oaxaca cheese is the hero. This is served with crispy, light tapioca chips that give it a texture. In the seconds, Trofie n Sour tomato is a must. Blanched pasta is tossed in fire to char it before tossing it again with with fermented tomato sauce. Smoky flavours are relished by the palate. Garnished with basil leaves n parmesan cheese, its texture is quite delicate.
Trofie & Sour Tomato |
Sunchoke & Shishito Skewer |
Try Podi Rub Chicken as well. Morsels of skin-on-chicken glazed with podi powder are first grilled and then finished in brick oven to make it cisrpy outside and juicy inside. Squeeze a little lime on it to enhance the flavour. Little more podi was wanted by my palate.
Mocha Bread Pudding |
Desserts here bring out the child in you as does the final gateway. Fruit Custard with jelly pieces took me back to my childhood. The brown butter crumb adds texture and flavour. Chocolate lovers should go for Cocoa Tart & Cherry Sorbet. Dark chocolate warm tart dressed with smoked cherries served with a delicious cherry sorbet. Smokiness of cherries is mind blowing.
Strawberry & Churro |
And now for the grand finale! As you exit, you are taken to a cupboard full of sweets and candies that reminds of childhood – Phantom cigarettes, peppermint balls, Melody, Éclair... Pick up whatever you want and as much as you want to take back a piece of the restaurant home with you… till you come back again.
Average cost for two: 3500 (with alcohol)
