For someone, who grew up as an introvert in a not-so-conservative middle-class family in Ghaziabad, exploring his ever-flickering interests in outdoor sports, arts, and crafts, learning languages, and nature trails was something that came naturally to Noida-based designer Sushant Abrol. His love and appreciation for both art and clothing brought him closer to designing, way before he realised it could be a viable career option. His heart yearned to adorn the military uniform but fate led him on a different path. It was in 2007 when the ace designer faced a significant dilemma when the dates for entrance exams for the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) and Service Selection Board (SSB) to join the Indian Armed Forces clashed on the same dates. Of course, he chose the former and graduated in 2010.
But it was only after working with veteran designer Rohit Bal for over half a decade that Sushant discovered his niche and a growing interest in the menswear market. "I sensed an opportunity to contribute a fresh voice to the menswear scene so I delved deep into the subject and founded Countrymade,” says the designer.
This year, Abrol won the sixth edition of NEXA Presents The Spotlight — a coveted talent discovery platform that gives one winning emerging designer a chance to spotlight their work at Lakmé Fashion Week X FDCI. Sushant will be showcasing his winning collection 'No Man's Land' at the upcoming LFW season from October 11-15 in Delhi. We caught up with the designer to talk more about the collection, his label's philosophy, and how he tries to create a niche for himself in the ever-evolving industry.
Excerpts:
Run us through your collection and a little bit about the creative process, colour palette, and techniques.
'No Man's Land' is a powerful and introspective journey through a
soldier's odyssey, as he reflects on his experiences and writes a poignant letter to his younger self. It delves deep into the fundamental questions surrounding the principles of war. Our interpretation of this concept is visually represented through Asemic writing, transformed into exquisite hand embroidery. The collection showcases a diverse range of textiles, each carefully chosen to convey different aspects of the soldier's journey. Every fabric tells a story. We have incorporated innovative techniques like waterless laser printing, pushing the boundaries of technology and consciousness. Moreover, this collection marks our foray into leather goods, with a range of thoughtfully designed products inspired by military elements.
Prateek
It has been four years since the label ‘Countrymade’ was launched. What have you learned from this venture? Any challenges you faced?
Since the inception of Countrymade, my journey has been a profound learning experience. I have encountered numerous challenges, including the unexpected arrival of the pandemic right at the beginning. However, I've embraced each obstacle as an opportunity for growth and refinement. I've continually strived for improvement, consistently bettering myself through continuous evolution. Consistency, patience, and
resilience have been key to my progress.
How much has your perspective towards fashion and design changed over the years?
Our perspective on fashion and design sensibilities has evolved significantly. We've transitioned into a brand that values craftsmanship and innovation deeply. We’ve built a team of skilled hand embroiderers who are passionate about intricate techniques to create stunning handcrafted artwork using cotton thread. All our creations are meticulously produced in-house, showcasing our commitment to quality and authenticity. Additionally, we've extended our support to local community women by involving them in crafting hand-knitted and hand-crocheted detailing pieces each season. Rather than adhering strictly to original patterns, motifs, and techniques, we infuse our own creative vision to craft our unique interpretation of traditional art forms. The result is an exquisite amalgamation of stark neutrals and timeless sophistication, all displayed through classic silhouettes. This reflects our commitment to the empowerment of local communities and our dedication to creating fashion that is both culturally rich and artistically progressive.
What prompted you to come up with ready-to-wear pieces?
Our approach has always been centred on the fusion of meticulous design, thorough research, and commercial viability. This blend strikes a harmonious balance between creativity and profitability, a key principle in our brand's philosophy. We prioritise not just creativity but also sustainable and ethical practices. Our commitment to sustainability and ethics, coupled with a dedication to continuous improvement, informs our design ideology. We believe in a future where fashion can be both aesthetically beautiful and environmentally responsible. This commitment drives our choice to design ready-to-wear pieces that cater to a broader audience while staying true to our values.
According to you, what are a few must-haves in a man's occasion-wear wardrobe?
First and foremost, having well-fitting garments is essential as they not only enhance one's appearance but also provide confidence and comfort. Additionally, investing in timeless cuts and heirloom-quality handcrafted pieces is highly advisable. These classics remain stylish and durable over time, ensuring long-term value. Furthermore, it's wise to steer clear of fleeting fashion trends, which can often be a trap. Instead, I recommend focusing on statement pieces that can effortlessly complement the basics in one's wardrobe. These statement pieces serve as versatile foundations for creating a variety of stylish and unique looks. This approach promotes both style and sustainability, ensuring a wardrobe that reflects individuality and sophistication.
tête-à-tête with Abrol
Your biggest critic – My inner self
2. The biggest risk you took – Was to start Countrymade
3. If not a designer, you would have been - An architect if not armed forces (as that is not by choice but by selection)
4. If you could design for a few people, alive or dead - Nick Wooster
5. A country/city that inspires you the most - India as a whole
6. Your label’s aesthetic in three words - Conscious, Contemporary, Classic
7. Trends that we can do for this festive and wedding season - Express individuality, not trends.
