Pakistani doctor and mountaineer Dr Asma Mushtaq, 34, has died after developing a critical high-altitude medical emergency while descending from the summit of Spantik, one of Pakistan’s prominent high-altitude peaks.
Mushtaq had successfully reached the 7,027-metre summit and was reportedly in good health at the time. The Alpine Club of Pakistan said she later suffered a serious medical emergency at approximately 6,400 metres, or around 21,000 feet, during the descent.
Her mountain guide, Akbar Ali, and expedition guide Muhammad Amin immediately moved to assist her. Despite their efforts and the extremely difficult conditions at altitude, Mushtaq could not be saved.
“Despite the immediate and dedicated efforts of her mountain guides, who provided every possible assistance under extremely challenging conditions, she could not survive,” Karrar Haidri, a senior vice president for the Alpine Club of Pakistan, said in a condolence statement.
Mushtaq was part of Pakistani women’s expedition
According to Ayaz Ahmed Shigri, secretary-general of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, Mushtaq was among five Pakistani women who reached the summit of Spantik during the expedition.
The team also included Zoni Aslam, Zaba Shigri, Shama and Sohana. Their successful ascent marked a notable achievement for Pakistani women in mountaineering, with Spantik presenting demanding technical, physical and high-altitude challenges.
The 7,027-metre peak, also known as Golden Peak, is located in the Nagar District of Gilgit-Baltistan and is considered one of Pakistan’s major mountaineering destinations.
High-altitude emergency struck during descent
High-altitude illness can become life-threatening when the body is unable to adequately adapt to reduced oxygen levels. Conditions associated with severe altitude sickness include high-altitude pulmonary edema and high-altitude cerebral edema.
The risk increases at extreme elevations, particularly when climbers ascend rapidly or have insufficient time to acclimatise. At elevations above 6,000 metres, environmental conditions can also make rescue operations exceptionally difficult.
In Mushtaq’s case, the emergency occurred after she had already completed the demanding climb to Spantik’s summit.
A doctor, traveller and passionate mountaineer
Originally from Lahore, Mushtaq was a UK-based medical doctor specialising in obstetrics and gynaecology. Outside her professional career, she developed a strong interest in adventure travel, mountaineering and documenting her journeys.
Her social media accounts showed her participating in climbing expeditions and sharing experiences from the mountains. She had also completed a winter ascent of Musa ka Musallah, a 4,076-metre peak, and had been associated with expeditions in Rupal and Arandu.
In a 2024 social media post seeking sponsorship for a K2 expedition, she described herself as “a doctor and mountaineer”.
Her combination of medicine and high-altitude adventure had made her an inspirational figure among people following Pakistan’s growing mountaineering community.
Shehroze Kashif pays tribute to guides
Alpinist Shehroze Kashif also expressed appreciation for the guides who stayed with Mushtaq during the emergency.
He highlighted their courage and efforts to assist her despite the hazardous conditions at high altitude. The expedition company, in a statement shared by Kashif, said it was working with the relevant authorities and Mushtaq’s family to manage the necessary arrangements following her death.
The incident has once again underscored the severe risks faced by climbers operating at extreme elevations, where even a successful summit can be followed by a dangerous descent.
Alpine club of Pakistan mourns her death
The Alpine Club of Pakistan, led by President Major General Irfan Arshad Khan, paid tribute to Mushtaq and recognised her determination to undertake a demanding Himalayan expedition.
The organisation described her death as a profound loss to her family and the wider mountaineering community. It also offered prayers for her and strength for her family as they cope with the tragedy.
