Watches & Wonders, In Fine Detail

Watches & Wonders, In Fine Detail

Five standout watch launches from the fair that are worth your attention

Mitrajit Bhattacharya Sumita BagchiUpdated: Friday, April 17, 2026, 09:03 PM IST
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The year's largest watchmaking event brings the industry's leading names to Geneva Palexpo | Pic: WWGF/KEYSTONE/Magali Girardin

For over 23 years of reporting from Geneva, erstwhile Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) and now Watches & Wonders, the more one sees the fair evolve, the more one recognises what remains constant. That constant is the unmatched quality of hospitality and a true representation of luxury. The change, of course, lies in the steady growth in the number of brands over the years. This year, while no singular defining trend is emerging from Watches & Wonders 2026, brands are quietly focused on filling gaps in their offerings, with affordability becoming a key—if much-needed—attribute. At the same time, bridge-to-luxury players are upping their game, bringing renewed legitimacy to horological offerings. Among the significant landmarks from the fair: Jaeger-LeCoultre introducing an integrated bracelet to appeal to a younger, more casual audience (a move reminiscent of Chopard’s Alpine Eagle in 2019); Baume & Mercier sharpening its focus with the new Joia de Baume & Mercier for women and Janhvi Kapoor as ‘Friend of the Brand’; Oris spotlighting its Atelier collection with fine craftsmanship on dials while retaining accessibility; and Tudor marking its centenary with the Monarch in a papyrus-toned dial—humble, yet a significant gift for watch lovers.

Here are five impressive novelties to watch out for:

Bvlgari Serpenti Aeterna

Pic: Bvlgari

Bvlgari revisits its long-standing affinity for pairing coloured gemstones with precious metals through the Aeterna, its modern, geometric take on the Serpenti form, reduced to a clean, fluid line around the wrist that debuted last year. For 2026, the design returns in two interpretations. The rose gold edition is the more elaborate and chromatic of the two: a 24mm curved case with a pavé diamond dial, featuring 493 brilliant-cut diamonds (5.0ct) and 122 coloured stones totalling 13 carats. Spanning rubellite, amethyst, emerald, Paraíba tourmaline and tanzanite, among others, the stones were individually selected and composed over 185 hours to achieve balance and cohesion. A single blue sapphire sits on the crown of this bejewelled watch. In contrast, the yellow gold version offers restraint—a white mother-of-pearl dial, 68 brilliant-cut diamonds along the bracelet, and a diamond-set crown—delivering the same silhouette in a more understated expression.

Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 AM

pic: Chopard

Chopard broadens its offering with new iterations across the Alpine Eagle in 2026, notably the Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 AM watch, where “AM” stands for antimagnetic, and serves as the debut of the collection’s first timepiece built with an increased resistance against magnetic fields. Magnetism has long challenged mechanical watchmaking, often causing timing deviations or stoppage, a constraint the Maison addresses with the Chopard 01.01 C automatic movement and its amagnetic hairspring, reducing sensitivity by nearly fifteen times compared to traditional hairspring movements. The 41mm Alpine Eagle in Lucent Steel, arguably the finest steel alloy in the Swiss watch industry, debuts a serene “Moss Green” dial evoking the beauty of Alpine landscapes, and radiating with a sunburst motif reminiscent of, guess who, an Alpine eagle’s iris, along with luminous markers, and a black central seconds hand. A crossed-out magnet symbol at 6 o’clock signals its technical edge. Signature details—from the engraved crown to the integrated bracelet—complete its refined, sporty aesthetic. Offering 60 hours of power reserve, a plethora of surface treatments, and ingenious innovation, this watch is one to watch out for precision timekeeping.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Hokusai Waterfalls series

pic: Jaeger-LeCoultre

The Swiss Manufacture has long transformed its Reverso into canvases of art. Since 2018, the brand has honoured 19th-century Japanese artist Hokusai’s works of art with limited-edition timepieces, hand-decorated with works from the artist. In 2026, the brand completes its interpretation of A Tour of the Waterfalls of the Provinces with four new references, each issued in a limited run of 10 pieces. A look at the watches reveals how craftsmanship and art converge, capturing the movement and poetry of cascading water in enamel. Brought to life by the Maison’s Métiers Rares™ atelier, the creations pair guilloché dials with layers of enamel, while their casebacks reveal miniature enamel paintings. These editions complete the artist’s eight-part Waterfalls cycle, depicting: Rōben Waterfall at Ōyama in Sagami Province; Kiyotaki Kannon Waterfall at Sakanoshita on the Tōkaidō; Yōrō Waterfall in Mino Province; and The Falls at Aoigaoka in the Eastern Capital. Housed in 18k white gold Reverso case, the front dials feature a hand-guilloché base executed on a rose-engine lathe, with distinct patterns for each reference: barleycorn, wavy, bamboo-style, and herringbone. Flip the watch over, and the casebacks display a miniature grand feu enamel reproduction of the corresponding Hokusai artwork. 

Tudor Monarch

pic: Tudor

Tudor celebrates its centenary with the Monarch, reviving a historic line through a distinctly modern lens. Measuring 39mm, the smaller, faceted stainless steel case makes it a very wearable design. One look and the watch catches your eye with its dark champagne or papyrus-toned dial and its distinctive Error-Proof layout—a blend of Roman numerals from 10 to 2 and Arabic numerals from 4 to 8, also known as a “California” dial. A small seconds counter sits neatly at 6 o’clock, while the hour and minute hands nod to Tudor’s signature snowflake design—an enduring hallmark of the brand’s visual identity. The caliber MT5662-2U, which is both COSC and METAS certified, adds a distinct robustness to the new Monarch. Visible through an open caseback, it gives an accuracy range of seconds (0/+5) per day, an anti-magnetic certification, and offers a 65-hour “weekend-proof” power reserve. The new 2-link steel bracelet features Tudor's T-fit system for on-the-wrist adjustment, making it a compelling addition to your must-have sports watch list.

Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921

pic: Vacheron Constantin

What keeps a 270-year-old watch Maison relevant—reviving icons and balancing heritage design, technical innovation, and contemporary elegance all at once? In the words of Christian Selmoni, Style & Heritage director, “It is the opportunity for our watchmakers to challenge themselves to improve and evolve while remaining strictly within the spirit of the original, historic model.” The world’s oldest watch Manufacture brings back the two new American 1921 models with a new dial aesthetic, inspired by the elegance of the Roaring Twenties. Offered in 36.5mm and 40mm 18K 5N pink gold cases, they retain their signature charm—cushion-shaped case, 45-degree rotated dial, and unconventional crown placement. A study in texture, the new dials play with finishes—from circular satin brushing at the periphery to finely snailed details—paired with a blue minutes track with matching Arabic numerals and a gradient blue calfskin strap for a layered aesthetic. Powered by the manually wound Calibre 4400 AS, rotated to suit its asymmetrical design, it offers 30m water resistance and a sapphire caseback.