Mumbai's love affair with beers on tap is well established, but cocktails on tap are still relatively uncommon. Intrigued by the concept of expertly crafted drinks poured straight from the tap, I made my way to Papi, the cocktail-forward, speakeasy bar on Linking Road in Khar, for a firsthand taste of the experience.
Papi threw its doors open for Mumbai very recently, and the space is still picking up among the city's party goers. This watering hole is open in the evening, for post-work chill-out scenes, however, on weekends, it also invites patrons for lunch.
Cocktails on tap at Papi: (left) Aperol Spritz and (right) Espresso Martini |
The minute you walk into that door which opens right onto Linking Road, you'll spot the tap cocktails. While the space indoors is air-conditioned, the walkthrough, where the tap cocktail machine holds a pride of place, is covered with a see-through roof, yet there's plenty of natural lighting trickling in.
It's got lovely green plants on one side and outdoor seating on the other. A word of caution: Given the current heat, settle for a cozy spot inside, until the first monsoon showers arrive. Post that the outdoor seating will become a prized spot, where you can sit and enjoy the cocktails on tap and watch the rain bring urgent relief to the parched city.
The bar at Papi |
Bar theatrics replaced by effortless pours
While the concept is intriguing, the cocktails-on-tap selection is relatively small, with only three offerings to choose from: the Paloma, Aperol Spritz and Espresso Martini. I skipped the tequila and grapefruit inspired Paloma, and dived straight into a glass of chilled, fizzy Aperol Spritz with bittersweet, citrusy notes. There was something undeniably satisfying about seeing the orange-hued cocktail flow straight from a tap into my glass.
Served in a chilled martini glass, the Espresso Martini paired coffee-flavoured liqueur with vodka, and came topped with a rich foam. A full-bodied cocktail, its robust character lingers on post every sip — offering just the right excuse to nudge you out of a lazy weekend slumber.
The cocktails at Papi are a treat for sore eyes |
Setting the stage for a boozy night
Papi's cocktail menu is crafted to tempt and tease, encouraging guests to explore, experiment, and move beyond the familiar classics. Instead of names, the signature cocktails are numbered—each one designed to outdo the last in character and complexity.
When No. 2 arrives at the table, its bubbly crown of mango air immediately catches the eye. Delightfully vibrant, with an appealing sweet-tangy personality, this concoction of tequila, passionfruit, red jalapenos and coriander is Papi's take on a picante, however, the mango air gives it a fruity, tropical twist.
A tropical fruit and little heat go a long way in creating the spectacular No. 8 cocktail that combines gin with guava and lime. The light, refreshing, airy pink rhubarb foam on top gives it a whimsical character. What hits you initially is the tart, savouriness of the rhubarb, but as the drink settles down, you also get to taste the sweetness of the guava.
Gin infused with lemon, limoncello and lavender soda come together in Cocktail No. 3, a spritz with floral notes that feels bright and beautifully balanced.
At Papi, you'll also find craft beer on tap, pints and zero proof drinks, which are not day-to-day mocktails. The unmistakable bittersweet notes of Campari shine through in Rum Zero, making it easy to forget that this is, in fact, a zero-proof drink. Teetotalers can opt for Aperol Zero with strawberry puree and Whiskey Zero with citrus cordial and soda.
(Left) Salmon Crudo and (right) Beef Carpaccio |
While much grabs your attention at Papi, it's the food that truly shines. The carpaccio section, in particular, doesn't need much to shine. The Coconut Carpaccio is a vibrant creation with passionfruit, nuts and sea grapes.
A little spicy, and packed with umami, Salmon Crudo, an appetizer of thinly sliced cured salmon served on a plate with a bright green emulsion of white miso, scallion, coriander, Asian ginger and garlic, acts as a palette cleanser.
The Buff Carpaccio, with its paper-thin slices of cured meat, Cipriani sauce and delicate black truffle shavings, is the undisputed star of the small plates menu. The interplay of the earthy truffle, umami Parmesan, and creamy homemade mayo creates a dish that feels luxurious without being heavy.
Chilli Cheese Toast |
A bestseller and a savoury vegetarian’s dream, the Whipped Ricotta with Aubergine Recheado, served with light, fluffy bread, is a must order. The Recheado base—a Goan red paste made in-house—is traditionally used in fish-based preparations, but at Papi it brings its signature fiery tang and depth to a vegetarian dish.
Another vegetarian highlight worth noting is the Chilli Cheese Toast. Roasted Thai chillies are blended with red bell peppers, spread over toasted bread and finished with a generous layer of burrata, resulting in an indulgent bite.
Pork Belly Tacos |
Three bite-sized, crunchy puff pastries topped with sliced duck and mousse arrive on a bed of rajma when you call for the Peking Duck Gnocco Fritto. Golden, crisp and irresistibly light, they disappear within minutes—so good you'll be tempted to repeat the order.
Mexican tacos with Asian flavours come together to create the Pork Belly Tacos, which are soft and not crunchy as they are not deep-fried to keep it healthy, and spicy enough to keep you salivating for more.
Sichuan Paella |
Got a craving for unapologetically indulgent food post the binge? The pizza won't disappoint. Slow fermentation works wonders to create a dough that is crisp outside and soft inside.
Sausage forms the base of the Pepperoni, Nduja, Hot Honey Pizza, which also features tangy tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella cheese, pepperoni and a drizzle of hot honey. The sourdough crust is finished with cream cheese.
The seafood Sichuan Paella, in a vibrant shade of yellow, arrives generously loaded with tiger prawns, clams and squid. The rice is imported from Spain to achieve the ideal texture, allowing the dish to hold its spice-laden character.
Desserts served in sculptural animal mugs |
Saving the best for last, the desserts come in cute sculptural animal mugs. Tiramisu, Sticky Toffee Tres Leches and Dark Chocolate Mousse are the three options, and whichever dessert you settle for, you're sure to leave Papi with a broad smile on your face. Papi Gourmand features all three, but in smaller portions and delivers the fitting finale to the meal.
Address: Bajaj Niwas, Plot 172, Linking Road, Khar West, Khar, Mumbai
Cost for two: ₹4,000 (with drinks approximately)
