The minute you step into The Silver Train at Mumbai's Gourmet Village Phoenix Palladium, you'll get a taste of royalty. It gives off regal, aristocratic vibes with its hand-painted walls, chandelier-clad ceiling, silver cutlery that can almost blind you with its shine and tables that welcome you for a royal celebration. The food is served in a silver thali, adding a touch of royalty to every bite.
As you sit back and glance through the menu, each dish has some royal connection. The Kaleji Ka Raita dates back to the era of Maharaja Sawai Madho Singh I of Jaipur. A royal treat, enjoyed especially after a successful chase, the dish features cooked liver (back in the day, it was the liver of the freshly caught game) mixed with dahi and mustard.
(Left) Ghura Naan and (right) The Daly College Butter Chicken |
The Ande Ka Halwa comes from the royal kitchen of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah of Awadh. His sons disliked eating eggs, so the palace cooks combined them with khoya, saffron and sugar to create a delicious halwa that the young princes relished without figuring out that it contained an ingredient that they simply dreaded.
Rajasthan's popular Lal Maas, Purani Dilli Nalli Nihari, Bilaspuri Baigan Bandhejan, Benarasi Dum Aloo, Dogra Ka Gucchi Pulao and the Tirunelveli Chicken Biryani find their rightful place in this menu.
Moreover, the team hopes to let your 'appetite and mood dictate how you eat', hence the starters and mains come in portions of 1, 2 and 4. It also helps you taste the dish and decide if you'd like to have more or just stop at one.
The spacious exteriors vs the resplendent interiors |
"I have been working with the royal food of Central India for a very long time. That's what my research has been about," says Chef and Co-founder Anuradha Medhora. "What started as a revival and documentation journey primarily for the food in Malwa (a historical region of west-central India) and our venture Charoli, which was a curated experience/delivery kitchen in Bandra came into full being at The Silver Train."
"The journey with royal food was reviving and documenting food that I grew up eating," shares Anuradha. "It is bringing back stuff that's familiar but disappearing. Food is a part of history that one very comfortably and casually loses over time, unlike architecture, written texts or even celebrations. The royal food because it never really left royal kitchens and homes of nobility, didn't really get its due. The Silver Train is an attempt to take you through the palace kitchens of India."
Several of the recipes are dishes that Anuradha grew up eating or have been handed down to her over the generations or through research. "While the food is serious, one can't forget that royal tables were opulent and fun; it was a celebration every day. We wanted to take the seriousness out of it and bring a lightness into enjoying food with history."
Anuradha doesn't come from a royal family but had the privilege of growing up around royalty. She comes from a small city in Madhya Pradesh that had several royal families settled there. You will also find dishes in The Silver Train that she enjoyed at home during her childhood. "A story of an entire civilisation can be told through its food and if we lose that, a small part of history can be lost forever," she explains.
(Left to right) Spice Bazaar Sharbat, Jamun Royale and Chameli Bagh |
The Silver Train lets you revisit India's OG coolers. Settle down with a refreshing Spice Bazaar Sharbat in a wonderful red shade that will instantly take you back to your childhood and remind you of the scorching summers when you cooled down with a glass of Rooh Afza. The drink combines the tanginess of kokum with soothing mint or pudina leaves, and the warm hug of Indian spices like ginger and cloves that aid digestion and cloves.
Kesari Sharifa is almost like a watered-down dessert in a glass. It's got almonds, saffron, coconut and custard apple. Save it up for the last course, once you are done with the heavyweight main course. Each sip of the creamy, sweet concoction will remind you of the sinful sitaphal basundi.
The blooming sharbat Chameli Bagh is meant for the experimental drinker, who doesn't mind the fragrance of jasmine flowers in a glass. It is a botanical explosion with jasmine, lime, coriander and soda.
(Left) Pom Shahi and (right) Maratha Hirva Jheenga |
At The Silver Train, moderation has its own pleasure, and their zero-proof spirits are a must-try, especially the Chikoo Surprise with zero-proof whiskey, chikoo and sandalwood, and the Jamun Royale, which has the bold flavours of gin, jamun and lime, and black salt.
The sparkling wine Pom Shahi, poured in a flute glass, is a great conversation starter with gin, pomegranate molasses, lime and lemon grass. It's light and won't get you tipsy, and goes well with the food, while making for a perfect teatime toast. Adrak et Lychee will surprise you with its hints of fresh ginger, lime and lychee.
(Left) Chanar Paturi and (right) Makkai Akhrot Kebab |
The mildly spiced Jodha Bai's Dahi Kebab literally melts in your mouth. It's not deep-fried, nor does it come with a coating of bread crumbs. It's got an even texture, delicately spiced and goes well with the tomato-cashew chutney.
Makkai Akhrot Kebab has the punchiness of corn and the crunchiness of walnuts, and these mamra badam seekh kebabs are beautifully paired with pudina and imli chutney.
Chanar Paturi, a dish of freshly made cheena mixed with grated coconut and a dash of lemon, is wrapped and slow grilled in a banana leaf.
Maratha Hirva Jheenga will test your spice tolerance with its green masala. The tiger prawns are marinated in a green chilli, coriander, and poppy seed masala and cooked in a tandoor to perfection.
(Left) Curd rice and (right) Gosht Ka Yakhni Pulao |
Curd rice gets a pride of place in this menu as it is a dish that transcends into the royal kitchens as well. Call it Dahi Butti, Thayir Sadam, Dahi Chawal or Doi Bhaat... this dish of rice mixed with yoghurt, ginger and green chillies comes with four regional tadkas. The best way to have it is by mixing all four tadkas and eating it with your hands.
Ghura Naan is inspired by a 15th-century recipe where the fermented naan dough is garnished with grapes, ajwain and holy basil and goes well with the rich, velvety butter chicken inspired by Indore's The Daly College (it was the butter chicken that was popular in Anuradha's mess and hence has made it to the menu).
Gosht Ka Yakhni Pulao is rich, fragrant and indulgent. Here the Basmati rice is cooked in a mutton stock. The dish is so light on the tummy and can be enjoyed even without the salan or raita.
(Left) Curious Kalakand and (right) Bennami Kheer |
End your meal with Bennami Kheer, a silken dessert with garlic. Don't worry, the flavour of the spice is very subtle and totally unrecognizable.
The Curious Kalakand comes in a betel leaf. It's an interesting combo to have the orange kalakand with brandy snap wrapped in a paan. The outer covering is crisp, while on the inside, the fresh khoya or mawa really lifts up the dish, transforming the simple dessert into a luxurious one.
If you're one of those who struggle to pick and choose the right dish, settle for their Signature Silver Train Thali that comes with a tamarind drink, accompaniments like shrikhand, chutney, roots salad, jaggery and makhan, palace mains including the Tamatar Saar, Badami Paneer, Gondiya Murg, Pancharathanam Dal, Dahi Bhindi, Taaze Masala Ka Maas, among others. You can choose among their vegetarian, chicken and mutton options.
Address: The Silver Train, 4th Floor, Phoenix Palladium, Gourmet Village, Lower Parel, Mumbai
Cost for two: ₹2,500 (approximately)
