Mumbai has changed dramatically since India became independent on August 15, 1947, but some of its oldest eateries have remained wonderfully stubborn about staying the same. Long before Instagram food trails and fancy restaurants, these places were already feeding generations of Mumbaikars. From Irani cafés and Udupi kitchens to legendary puri stalls, these pre-Independence restaurants offer a delicious way to experience the city's past.
Leopold Cafe, Colaba
Leopold Cafe |
Few Mumbai restaurants carry as much history as Leopold Cafe, which opened in 1871 on Colaba Causeway. Founded by Iranian Zoroastrian immigrants, it did not begin life as a café. The space first operated as a wholesale cooking-oil business, later becoming a general store and pharmacy before evolving into the restaurant tourists know today.
It became a popular meeting point, particularly among international visitors, and its history also became intertwined with the 26/11 attacks. Parts of the bullet damage have been preserved as a reminder of that tragic day.
Today, visitors still turn up for favourites such as keema pav, along with drinks and desserts.
Olympia Coffee House, Colaba
The Odyssey team at Mumbai’s Olympia Coffee House |
Established in 1918 by Iranian businessman Syed Mohammed Merab, Olympia Coffee House has spent more than a century serving comforting Mumbai staples.
The restaurant recently found itself in the spotlight after becoming a stop for the Spider-Man: Brand New Day cast and crew, but its legacy goes much deeper. During the 26/11 attacks, Olympia also became a place of refuge for people seeking safety.
A visit calls for chai and bun maska, while its keema pav, biryani, mutton masala fry, bheja masala fry and custard are worth exploring.
Britannia & Co., Ballard Estate
Britannia & Co |
Tucked inside Ballard Estate, Britannia & Co. has been serving its Indo-Persian fare since 1923. The restaurant was founded by Rashid Kohinoor, and the family has kept its old-world character alive.
Its worn walls, marble-topped tables and vintage interiors transport diners to another era, while the food remains the main attraction. The signature berry pulao, combining fragrant rice and mutton with tart Iranian berries, is the dish most visitors associate with the restaurant. Save room for its caramel custard.
Cafe Madras, Matunga
Cafe Madras |
For generations of South Indian food lovers, Cafe Madras has been a Matunga institution. Founded in 1940 by Gopal Purshottam Kamath, the humble Udupi eatery was created to serve authentic coastal South Indian flavours.
Today, his descendants continue the family legacy. The restaurant is known for its quick service, affordable meals and comforting breakfast staples. Podi idli, ghee dosa and filter coffee remain favourites, while dishes such as neer masala with stew, ragi masala dosa, pesarattu and rasam idli add variety.
Ram Ashraya, Matunga
Ram Ashraya |
Another Matunga favourite, Ram Ashraya opened in 1939 and has built a reputation for serving filling South Indian meals at approachable prices.
The eatery starts its day remarkably early, opening at 5am, and crowds quickly follow. Dosas, idlis, vadas and sambar form the backbone of the menu, with options such as Mysore dosa and onion dosa adding variety.
Its rasam, filter coffee and pineapple sheera are also popular picks. The restaurant has attracted several Bollywood celebrities over the years, including members of the Kapoor family, Amitanbh Bachchan, Hema Malini, Vidya Balan and Vicky Kaushal.
Kyani & Co., Marine Lines
Kyani & Co |
Founded in 1904 by Mr Khodram, Kyani & Co. began as a bakery producing breads, biscuits, cakes and other tea-time treats. Over the decades, it developed into one of Mumbai's beloved Irani cafés.
Its vintage interiors remain part of the charm, complete with old photographs, wooden furniture, glass jars and historic advertisements. Food-wise, the menu brings together favourites such as bun maska, sali boti, akuri, keema pav and mawa cake.
Pair the meal with a bottle of Pallonji's Raspberry Soda for the full old-Mumbai experience.
Bagdadi Restaurant, Colaba
Bagdadi Restaurant |
Located near the Taj Mahal Palace, Bagdadi Restaurant traces its establishment to 1936, with family history connecting its origins even further back. It reportedly began as a modest tea stall and eatery serving workers involved in building landmarks around the Gateway of India.
Today, the restaurant is known for straightforward Mughlai food and a no-frills atmosphere. Unlike many Mughlai restaurants, it does not focus on kebabs. Instead, meat-based curries such as mutton bhuna and chicken Patiala take centre stage.
Pancham Puriwala, Fort
Pancham Thali at Pancham Puriwala |
Pancham Puriwala, near Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus, has a history that predates the railway station itself. According to family accounts, its founder Pancham arrived in Mumbai in the 1840s and began selling puris.
Legend has it that he travelled for 39 days on foot from what is now Uttar Pradesh because railways were not yet available. The restaurant today remains simple, with shared tables, no air conditioning and a distinctly old-school atmosphere.
The speciality remains what started it all: crisp puris served alongside an assortment of vegetarian sabzis.
