Kolhapuri chappals, the traditional handcrafted leather footwear of Maharashtra and Karnataka, have officially received the prestigious Geographical Indication (GI) tag. This tag legally recognises their regional and cultural uniqueness. The exclusive registered ownership of this GI tag lies with two state-run corporations- the Sant Rohidas Leather Industries and Charmakar Development Corporation Limited (LIDCOM) in Maharashtra, and the Dr. Babu Jagjivan Ram Leather Industries Development Corporation Limited (LIDKAR) in Karnataka. This has been reaffirmed by the Managing Directors of both corporations.
Global fashion house 'Prada' sparks controversy
In June 2025, Italian luxury fashion brand Prada unveiled its men's Spring/Summer collection. During the show, models wore leather sandals that bore an uncanny resemblance to the traditional Kolhapuri chappals- both in design and craftsmanship. This visual similarity drew significant backlash on social media, particularly among artisans and heritage advocates in India.
A group of lawyers filed a Public Interest Litigation (PIL) in the Bombay High Court, alleging that Prada’s use of the Kolhapuri-like design violated the GI protection rights. However, on July 16, 2025, the court dismissed the PIL. The bench clarified that only the officially registered GI tag holders-LIDCOM and LIDKAR- have the legal standing to initiate civil action in such matters.
Corporations issue joint statement against unauthorised representation
Following the court ruling, both corporations issued a joint public statement reaffirming their sole legal authority over the Kolhapuri GI tag. They clarified that no individual or organisation, other than themselves, is authorised to communicate, negotiate, or represent Kolhapuri chappals- especially in international disputes like the one involving Prada.
Preserving a rich legacy
The heritage of Kolhapuri chappals traces back to the 12th-century saint traditions and saw revival under the reformist rule of Rajarshi Shahu Maharaj in the 20th century. LIDCOM and LIDKAR emphasised that their mission goes beyond mere GI tag enforcement- it is also about protecting the rights and livelihood of thousands of local leather artisans, while ensuring that this cultural legacy gains rightful recognition on national and international platforms.
