In little over a century, whiskies from Japan that started by bridging a gap in the local market have become a global phenomenon. The one person who has seen and played a very key role in this meteoric rise is Shinji Fukuyo, chief blender at Suntory Global Spirits. For 42 years, Fukuyo has been immersed in a world of balance, maturity and perfection at the oldest Japanese distillery. He remembers that just 25 years ago, Japanese whisky sales were declining. “The first 25 years in my whiskey career, the Japanese whisky business was so bad. We had a surplus of whisky stock at the time,” he shares. An unthinkable idea based on the limited availability of the spirit today.
Shinji Fukuyo, Chief Blender, Suntory Global Spirits |
The shift in perception for Japanese whisky category was driven when Suntory Global Spirits' marquee Japanese whisky brand, Yamazaki, started winning awards in the noughties. Yamazaki Single Malt Sherry Cask 2013, winning the World Whisky of the Year, changed the trajectory completely, especially in India. “It was a drastic change, from poor sales to good sales,” Fukuyo says. In 2026, the demand consistently outbids the supply, which is why Suntory Global Spirits has to allocate whisky stocks based on a city’s performance and not a country or a region. Since whisky production is a time-intensive business, the moment Suntory realised that Japanese whisky was on the uptick, after 2010, they invested heavily in expanding their whisky production facilities. “In 2013 and 2014, we added new pot stills, at both Yamazaki and Hakushu distilleries. We added new big column stills, and we’ve been building new warehouses every year, all to prepare for the demand.”
Hibiki is a blend of various Suntory whiskies and oak finishes |
Suntory is known for its whisky brands, Yamazaki, Hakushu, Hibiki and Chita. The former two single malts come in various age statements and cask expressions; Chita is a grain whisky, while Hibiki is a blended whisky. Fukoyo was in India this week to promote Hibiki. In a guided tasting, he explored how various Suntory whiskies and oak types come together to create a harmonious blend of Hibiki and as a symbol of the 24 seasons of the traditional Japanese calendar. The amber liquid continues to entice and enthral whisky lovers world over by its quality and uniqueness. Japan’s terroir has a big imprint on these two aspects. Nature and impetus on craftsmanship add uniqueness while the water, often considered the soul of the spirit, is a qualitative differentiator.
"The water in Japan is very different from Scotland. “Our water is very soft and pure, while the water used in Scotch whisky includes organic compounds,” Fukuyo explains. He adds that the temperature and seasonal differences help with quicker maturation. “We have a very hot and humid summer and the winter is very cold and dry. The distinct seasons can accelerate the whisky maturation. That's why our whisky reflects that kind of oak extraction from the casks.”
A flight of Japanese whiskies by Suntory Global |
Suntory, since its inception in the early 20th century, has not veered from its path to attain perfection in a dram, a philosophy that continues to drive the three primary distilleries. “Despite all the challenges and difficulties, we were allowed to invest in R&D on whisky making to pursue excellence and improve our ability to make better whisky,” he adds. He brought back floor malting, in a small capacity, for the uber-premium expressions of Yamazaki and Hakushu. “It is a tough job and can be inefficient but it results in a different and better quality of liquids.” The focus on innovation has led Suntory to consider the environmental impact of its business. The company’s work in energy and productivity efficiency is today drawing legacy single malt makers from the Western Hemisphere to Japan.
The future looks bright for whiskies and Japanese in particular, with craft distilleries starting to make a mark. Even as Fukuyo looks forward to a happy retired life in the next 10-20 years, he is hopeful that the category and its players will flourish with global dominance.
