Apple’s latest festive campaign in collaboration with Raw Mango, starring Juhi Chawla, capturing the spirit of Diwali through Indian textiles, dance, music and technology, set in a restored 19th-century royal palace in Rajasthan, was definitely not on our Diwali bingo card. Nor was Sabyasachi hosting the first-ever Diwali reception at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City or Anamika Khanna presenting a special couture showcase in London as part of the UK–India Creative Circle’s Diwali celebration in collaboration with Amrapali Jewels. Clearly, Diwali is no longer just an Indian festive occasion on the global luxury calendar; it is becoming a cultural and commercial event that international brands want to own a piece of.
This season, Jimmy Choo unveiled a festive Diwali campaign and collection, Burberry returned with its second Diwali capsule, Christian Louboutin unveiled Rayon de Lumière, a limited-edition capsule created for India, and Ferragamo introduced its first Diwali capsule. The festival is increasingly finding expression through bespoke collections, campaigns and exclusive gatherings, as luxury houses look to connect with India’s growing affluent consumer base and its global diaspora. But while global brands are discovering the commercial and cultural currency of Diwali, the more interesting shift is happening within our festive wardrobe itself. The conventional formula of heavily embellished lehengas, ornate saris and traditional menswear is being reserved for fewer occasions, giving way to a more individualistic approach, where the new festive code is less about how much one wears and more about how one wears it.
Look from Payal Khandwala | Pic: Payal Khandwala
The silhouette shift
For designer Payal Khandwala, this evolution is closely linked to the changing geography of celebration. “The idea of occasionwear is certainly evolving, and as Diwali goes global, there is a shift in how women celebrate, and therefore how they dress. Sharp silhouettes and effortless style are at the heart of our label, and I like to think that in our own quiet way, we’ve played a part in setting the tone for dressing well, in a way that isn’t loud or performative.”
Even Anita Dongre, who runs a large retail ecosystem across India, New York and Dubai, echoes this changing mindset, “People no longer dress for the occasion; they dress for themselves, and the occasion is simply where they happen to be. Festive dressing has become more personal and more confident.” This is reflected in the season’s silhouettes: pre-draped saris, sculptural blouses, corset tops, fluid lehengas, asymmetric drapes, contemporary jackets and co-ord sets, which continue to be the trend du jour. Alia Bhatt’s gold Banarasi jacket paired with tailored trousers by Mayyur Girotra is a case in point, bringing traditional weaving into a contemporary, almost androgynous silhouette.
Kareena Kapoor Khan in Ritu Kumar | Pic: Ritu Kumar
Colour and craft go contemporary
Colour, too, is breaking away from prescribed festive palettes. While jewel tones and metallics remain relevant, unexpected combinations, tonal dressing and deeper neutrals are gaining ground. Khandwala points to her Autumn Winter '26 collection, where brocade ensembles in black and steel grey have emerged as bestsellers. “The women who choose to wear our label are gentle non-conformists: unafraid to go against the grain and comfortable in their choices. Choosing sculptural silhouettes and non-traditional colours is part of this sensibility.” Centuries-old textiles and artisanal techniques are finding new expression in lighter, more wearable silhouettes.
Sara Arjun in Anushree Reddy |
Anita Dongre believes consumers are increasingly choosing clothes that carry personal meaning beyond the occasion. “People no longer dress for the occasion; they dress for themselves, and the occasion is simply where they happen to be.” Her Love is Home collection draws on the Benarasi tradition, translating its motifs and weaving vocabulary into lighter, more adaptable garments. “We drew our colours from memory rather than convention, rani pink, amber and olive, the kind of shades you might find in your grandmother’s cupboard, the colours that first shaped our understanding of beauty. In a fast, increasingly AI-dependent world, there is a renewed longing for things made through human connection. People want to know whose hands made their garment, and that appreciation keeps generations of craft knowledge alive,” Dongre adds.
The appeal of craft is also tied to a more conscious luxury consumer. Khandwala observes, “We are also seeing the emergence of a luxury consumer who looks beyond the brand, and cares about how her clothes are made.” Her recommendation is to invest in handwoven brocades, matka silk, heirloom phulkari, and patola in silhouettes that are designed for ease of wear and movement. “Good design is the bridge to make traditional textiles and artisanal techniques feel current and relevant to the younger consumer,” she adds.
Styling is where the new festive code becomes particularly personal. A brocade jacket with jeans, a shirt with a sari, or a woven lehenga paired with a simple knit are replacing the idea of buying an entirely new look for every celebration. Dongre suggests letting one statement piece lead, while Khandwala advocates understanding proportions, colour and individual style. “Don’t fall for trends, or pick up an actor’s look from Instagram. Trust your instinct, let the mirror be your honest friend, and experiment with well-made clothes.”
Ali Fazal in Tasva | Pic: Tasva
The men get their moment
Men, too, are moving beyond the predictable kurta-pyjama and sherwani. Sharper bandhgalas, shorter kurtas, wider trousers, layered Nehru jackets and contemporary interpretations of traditional textiles are bringing a new ease to festive dressing. Dongre sees men developing a more considered relationship with colour, craft and versatility. “A well-made bandhgala in a colour drawn from memory can move from a wedding to a festive evening to a dinner for years. Choose craftsmanship over embellishment, and pieces you will return to again and again.”
Ultimately, the new festive wardrobe is less about excess and more about intention. Like Dongre says, “The only rule now is that there are no rules.” Accessorise differently and your ensemble will look different; choose an heirloom jhumka, a handcrafted bag, a treasured piece passed down. Who says you need an entirely new outfit for every celebration?
