Demonic Eyes, Pouty Lips & Hot Pink! Gucci Just Revived Messy, Wild Makeup Trend At Milan Fashion Week

For a while, beauty has been obsessed with restraint. Barely-there skin, brushed-up brows, glossy lips and the eternal “less is more” philosophy have dominated our feeds. But Gucci appeared to have other plans for the season.

At the Italian fashion house’s latest Milan Fashion Week Spring 2027 presentation by creative director Demna Gvasalia, beauty took a decidedly louder turn. Smudged black eyes, saturated blocks of colour, pouty lips and an unapologetically glamorous attitude created by makeup artist Sam Visser replaced the polished minimalism we have become used to. The overall mood felt like a return to the excess and attitude of 1980s beauty, but with a distinctly modern Gucci edge.

Gucci’s makeup was all about the eyes

The eyes were impossible to miss.

Rather than creating the perfectly blended, Instagram-ready smoky eye, the makeup artists embraced intensity. Several models walked out with dense black pigment wrapped around the upper and lower lash lines, creating a dramatic, almost shadowy frame around the eyes.

Alex Consani was among the models to wear the striking treatment, with black concentrated around her eyes before the look exploded into a vivid hot-pink moment.

Elsewhere, the same dramatic approach appeared through colour. One look featured an unapologetically bright yellow sweep across the eye area, while another brought an electric blue band across the lids.

The colours weren't softened into barely noticeable washes. They were saturated, graphic and deliberately visible – almost as if the pigment had been painted directly onto the face.

Smudged rather than perfect

What made the beauty look particularly interesting was its refusal to chase perfection.

Some models had intense shadows pulled outward towards the temples, while others wore sharply defined wings. There were also smoky looks where the pigment appeared deliberately diffused around the lower lash line.

The message was clear: this was makeup with attitude.

Skin stayed surprisingly restrained

With all that drama happening around the eyes, the complexion did not compete for attention.

The skin appeared smooth and luminous, with the cheekbones given subtle definition rather than being heavily sculpted. There was enough glow to keep the complexion fresh, but not so much that it distracted from the stronger eye looks.

This balance was key to making the maximalist makeup feel wearable rather than overwhelming.

And then came the pouty lips

The lips brought another dose of old-school glamour.

Across the looks, the palette moved between glossy nude and beige tones, richer reds and deeper burgundy shades. A strong red pout instantly pushed the makeup towards classic diva territory, while the darker colours created a moodier, tougher finish.

Some of the lip looks also played with matte lipstick layered in a way that created subtle dimension, including deeper colour concentrated towards certain areas of the mouth.

How to recreate this electric runway makeup

You don't need to recreate the entire runway face to borrow the Gucci beauty mood.

Start with a smooth, naturally luminous base and keep contouring soft. The eyes should do most of the talking. For an everyday version, use a black kohl pencil around the upper and lower lash lines and gently smudge the edges with a small brush. Don't worry about making both eyes perfectly identical, the slightly undone finish is part of the appeal.

For something bolder, swap black for an intensely pigmented yellow, electric blue or hot pink shadow. Instead of blending it into a soft haze, place the colour deliberately across the lid and extend it slightly outward.

Then choose your lip according to the mood. A glossy nude keeps the look modern and understated, a classic red brings the retro glamour, while burgundy gives it a darker edge.

Keep the rest of the face fresh and avoid piling on heavy contour or multiple statement products.