'That's Indian Blouse': YSL's Paris Fashion Week Collection Sparks Debate Over Desi Designs Without Credit

When fashion’s biggest names unveil a new collection, the conversation often extends beyond the runway. That is exactly what happened with Yves Saint Laurent’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection, which has caught the attention of Indian fashion enthusiasts online for its ornate silhouettes, paisley motifs and jewellery that some viewers feel strongly echo desi aesthetics.

Inside YSL's new collection that feels very 'desi'

YSL's ready-to-wear collection by Anthony Vaccarello was showcased on September 29 at the Place du Trocadéro near the Eiffel Tower in Paris as part of Paris Fashion Week. The presentation followed a largely gold-gilded colour palette, with a black interlude towards the end, across 59 maximalist looks.

While the collection received attention for its elaborate visual language, entrepreneur and content creator Arshia Moorjani took to social media to point out what she saw as distinctly Indian influences within the designs.

Indian calls out desi-looking details

In a video, Moorjani said she initially mistook one of the looks for an outfit from an Indian designer. She explained, "I was randomly scrolling on Instagram this morning and I saw this picture and I was like, 'Oh, which Indian designer is that?' It's not. It's Saint Laurent, their new collection, which is very, in my opinion, inspired by India."

Pointing towards details in the collection, she highlighted the jewellery, paisley elements and silhouettes that reminded her of traditional Indian fashion.

"This is a lehenga blouse. You can't tell me otherwise. Even this right here, it's like giving Indian royalty," she said, adding that the paisley prints appeared reminiscent of Indian fabrics and jacquard textiles.

However, Moorjani clarified that her comments were not necessarily a criticism of the collection. "We're not mad at it. I'm just saying, like, listen, we've been knowing. Maybe the inspiration was always there. Finally, now the world is starting to notice and calling it so chic. Indians have always been there," she said.

Internet reacts

Her video soon sparked a conversation in the comments, with several users agreeing that the collection featured familiar Indian fashion references.

"Love the inspiration, expect the credit!" one user wrote. Another commented, "Indian women have always been chic!"

A third user said, "Love the designs. But yes please give credit where credit is due." Another added, "Been wearing these since days of auntie shades at family weddings."

However, not everyone agreed that every Indian-looking design necessarily requires an explicit attribution. One commenter pointed to Yves Saint Laurent's longstanding history of drawing from different cultures, writing that the designer grew up in Morocco and was inspired by Russia, China, Japan and India. The user also referenced a gold Maharaja-style turban featured in the new campaign.

Another commenter questioned the expectation of attribution altogether, asking, "Why does it matter that every single thing needs to be credited to India?"

The discussion ultimately highlights the larger conversation around cultural influence in global fashion, with YSL's latest collection becoming another talking point for how Indian visual references are recognised, interpreted and credited on international runways.