Lakme Fashion Week 2022: Shahab Durazi yet again shows couture can be more than embellished wedding wear

There is a reason why Shahab Durazi was missed at the Lakme Fashion Week for 12 years. The ace designer yet again proved that he has a powerful story to tell with his sartorial designs and regal collection every time he hits the limelight.

The audience was ablaze and honoured the designer with standing ovation as he made his way on the ramp post his collection showcase. It was indeed a treat  to see Shahab’s magnificent collection being back for this season of FDCI X Lakme Fashion Week.

The capsule collection endorsed slow fashion and the relevance of timelessness defining the concept of trends while promoting the classic couture with contemporary nuances.

Predominantly an all black collection, Durazi’s affinity to black, white, grey and silver was carried in this vintage collection as well. The mystery of black, juxta positioned with white, cream, bone, ecru, dove, slate and silver, was used in myriad ways to translate the language of modernity and fluidity. The collection of 40 pieces (20 men and 20 women) had a vast ensemble of silhouettes ranging from tailored separates and evening gowns to soft blouses, impeccably cut jackets and boleros and sharply tailored pants for both men and women. 

There was a sense of nostalgia with pieces reminiscent of the 40s and 50s: an era known for its vintage chic. Skirts and scarves borrow abundantly from the dapper dresses, displaying fringed details. With great attention to detailing accessories that were paired with the clothes like belts had elaborate diamante buckles, blouses had intricate pearl and crystal necklines and capes, and coats had large French motifs from Renaissance art and Rococo art. The raglan sleeve appears consistently through the collection, enhancing the shape of shoulders and lending a modern, contemporary feel to pieces one would imagine are strictly old school. 

The men’s collection sported crisp tailored sherwanis with intricate beadwork, while the kurtas were asymmetrical highlighted with ornate beaded borders using silk threads. The collection also had an assortment of complementing accessories such as hand embroidered clutch bags, lace collars and cuffs, envelope briefcases and pearl encrusted bow clips. 

Durazi’s love for wool was visible in men’s coats that were structured in rich wools to further enhance the shape of couture cuts and stark tailoring.

“I take my time to make my collection. I think you can do the show when you have a story. You need to bring old ideas with new perspectives. I want to bring timelessness in fashion. I believe couture should be more than a wedding. You don’t have to do so much embellishment. It can be simple. ,” said the designer post the show.