Food Review: Ammakai Brings Authentic South Indian Flavours To Your Plate

Amma wants you to eat with hands’ says one of the frames that hang on the wall. And I am happy… happy that nobody will judge when I resort to eat with hands as always!

“Idea is to make everyone feel ‘at home’ while they eat,” explains Ashish, manager of Ammakai. “The entire menu is curated keeping in mind the comfort of the person who visits. They should feel that they are having home-cooked food,” adds Chef Parveen.

Ammakai, the newest offering of Bastian Hospitality, is an ode to co-founder Shilpa Shetty’s native cuisine. However, they have also explored some other regions in the South and come up with authentic South Indian flavours, sometimes with a little twist. They do have a few Bastian bestsellers as well on the menu to keep the patrons happy.

Sabakki Vada (from Bites) and Masala Vada (from All Day Breakfast) are the starters on table. Former is a version of Maharashtrian Sabudana Vada without peanuts. Later is a crisp dal vada with liberal sprinkle of homemade masala that gives it a zing along with the crunch.

They have an elaborate bar menu with a special section — Amma’s Recipes But Make It Spiked. South Indian food inspired cocktails are quite intriguing. Bar Manager Imran recommends Malanadu Mist After The Rain. The drink is finished on the table with vetiver spray. Tribute to forests of Malanadu region, this has cascara infused gin as the hero. It’s finished with some warm spices and orange zest clarification, and hazelnut liqueur. Burnt honeycomb and a eucalyptus twig serve as garnish. Hazelnut liqueur smooths the edges and the spices come last on palate.

Seafood lovers are in for a treat with a few dishes exceeding the expectations. Bangda Tawa Masala — nearly boneless fillet of mackerel that’s smashed flat after slashing in the middle. Skin is charred, masala applied, tawa fried and then ovened with some more masala. Result is amazingly tasty. Generous sprinkle of Homemade curry masala  enhances the taste. Curry Leaf Prawns — green masala marinated and perfectly cooked prawns are a delight. As is the Raw Mango Red Snapper — Steamed red snapper marinated with raw mango and green tomato chutney with other greens paste. Subtle, nice, lingering taste.

Mutton lovers too have plenty of choice. Mutton Khara Boti is a mutton shank that’s cooked with the traditional green masala. Fall-off-the-bone meat makes it delectable. Mandya Mutton Curry has a red masala that’s khaskhas (poppy seed) forward which gives it a endearing texture. Sabaki Soppu Seekh kabab — meat blended with cinnamon, bay leaves, star anise, chilli and dill, the umami factor. Luscious, nearly melt in mouth and is robata grilled.

Parveen and Imran make all masalas, infusions, garnishes etc. in house. That ensures the quality. Bygdi red chilli is one common ingredient. Their passion for their work is obvious and infectious.

Pachi Pulusu Highball is the next cocktail. Complex flavours. Ghee washed mezcal, coconut washed anejo rum, soda that’s clarified with red chilli, tamarind and spices. While chilli comes last, all flavours come forward one by one making it a slow drink that you savour for long. It proves to be an ideal company for the Coorgi Pandi Curry — pork cooked in Coorg masalas. Authentic masala with kachampulli vinegar, the hero of the dish, that comes from Coorg and curry leaves garnish. Tender morsels of pork are rightly cooked.

It’s time for some vegetarian stuff again. Coastal Stew, Methi Soppina Pappu are recommended. The later is toor dal cooked with methi leaves and green chilli paste. Goes best with steamed rice. Have a Masala Vada to bite on, on the side. Complete meal in itself. Coastal stew is a coconut gravy with seasonal veggies. Have it with Davangiri Dosa. Neer Dosa is passable, since the texture leaves a lot to desire. You can have the davangiri dosa with Belgavi Chicken Curry or Koli Pulimunchi as well. The Pulimunchi tastes great with Ghee Rice too.

Majjige Menasinkai Curd Rice… guys, this is a cocktail. And is best paired with all dishes, especially mains. It comes with a curd rice espuma — all the works, including red chilli, urad dal tadka! Mensankai masala infused gin that’s finished with mezcal, little jaggery, and dill. The espuma is the umami which helps neutrilise the spice and heat of food.

Another cocktail, which actually is good to be a starting point, is Estate Tonic Highball. Fresh on palate with sherry notes highlighted by tonic. Should pair well with Masala Vada.

Must have dessert is Filter Coffee Soft Serve. Triggers the softy generation’s nostalgia. They have coffees as well.

Food at Ammakai is delicious, flavourful… but… mind it… it’s a little hot. If your palate is not used to the hot, spicy South flavours, tell your server or Chef Parveen to go easy on the chillies. And they will do that for you, willingly.

Average cost for two: ₹ 4,000 (with alcohol)