De Beers’ Toranj Mehta On Reinventing Natural Diamonds For A New Generation

Few companies have shaped culture the way De Beers has. With a long, layered history stretching across more than a century, De Beers has fundamentally shaped the way the world perceives diamonds. From the legendary ‘Diamonds Are Forever’ campaign — arguably one of the most successful advertising slogans of all time — to popularising the concept of solitaire engagement rings, De Beers has left an indelible mark on consumer culture.

At its peak, the brand did more than just market jewellery; it transformed diamonds from a luxury once reserved for royalty and the aristocracy into symbols of aspiration and love for the middle class — all by making diamonds more accessible. But times change. And as Toranj Mehta, Head of Marketing at De Beers India, admits, the company today is engaged in a “fight for relevance.” 

The diamond industry faces new challenges — not from another gemstone, but from lab-grown diamonds, a category that has quickly gained visibility, affordability and acceptance among younger consumers.

Lab-grown diamonds are chemically identical to natural ones, but Mehta is quick to point out that the two cannot truly be compared. “Yes, lab-grown diamonds are amazing in their own right, but they have a large application in industrial uses — from aerospace to electronics,” she explains. “They’re simply not the heirlooms that natural diamonds are.”

The distinction, for De Beers, is not just about science but about symbolism. Natural diamonds are billions of years old, formed deep within the Earth’s mantle and brought to the surface through rare volcanic eruptions. 

Of all the rough diamonds mined globally, only about 20–30% are of gem quality, fit to be cut and set into jewellery. Additionally, each natural diamond is unique, shaped by the random interactions of carbon with other elements during its growth. This gives them distinct patterns, colours, and internal “fingerprints.” In contrast, lab-grown diamonds tend to have uniform structures, lacking the quirks and individuality born of nature.

Mehta draws a sharp comparison: “Imagine you’re buying a bag. Would you rather buy a Gucci, or a Gucci first-copy?” The implication is clear. To De Beers, a lab-grown diamond may serve as fashion jewellery, but when it comes to marking life’s most significant moments — love, commitment, family — people still gravitate toward the natural and original.

This sense of permanence is what allows diamonds to transcend mere ornamentation. They become heirlooms, treasures passed down through generations, carrying not just financial value but also emotional resonance. A diamond ring from a father to his daughter, or from a woman to her closest friend, embodies more than beauty; it embodies a story.

Yet, for a brand like De Beers, being relevant today means more than telling stories of love and luxury. It also means addressing questions of ethics, sustainability, and social responsibility — issues at the forefront for modern consumers.

In regions where De Beers operates, such as Botswana, Namibia, and South Africa, diamond mining contributes significantly to national GDP and community development. The company works with local governments to invest in infrastructure, education, and women’s empowerment. “Communities that work in and around the mines benefit directly from our presence,” says Mehta.

One of De Beers’ most remarkable initiatives is ‘Moving Giants’, a conservation project that started with the creation of a nature reserve for elephants in South Africa. As the elephant population flourished, the area began facing challenges of overpopulation and deforestation. 

To restore ecological balance, De Beers began relocating entire herds — carefully preserving family structures — from one region to another. Now in its seventh year, the project has become a model for wildlife conservation and reflects the company’s commitment to protecting the environments in which it operates.

India has always held a deep relationship with jewellery — particularly diamonds. Jewellery here is not merely decorative; it is a storehouse of both emotional and financial value. It plays a role in rituals, traditions, and personal milestones, often carrying forward stories across generations.

“India is a country where jewellery is as much about meaning as it is about beauty,” says Mehta. Increasingly, diamonds are being gifted in new contexts — women giving them to their best friends as symbols of enduring bonds, fathers presenting them to daughters to express love, or even women buying diamonds for themselves as declarations of independence and achievement.

Diamonds In Reflection

While De Beers is often credited with inventing the idea of the diamond engagement ring, Mehta reminds us that the tradition predates modern advertising. Royals like King Edward VII gifted diamond rings to their consorts, embedding the practice in cultural history long before De Beers amplified it. Today, the brand’s campaigns, such as ‘Best Friend Bands’ or ‘Love from Dad’, do not seek to invent traditions but to reflect what people already practice — gifting diamonds as an expression of love, care, and permanence.

As De Beers navigates this era of change, its challenge is twofold: to protect the value and heritage of natural diamonds, while also aligning with the expectations of a younger, more conscious consumer. While the “fight for relevance” may be ongoing, Mehta is confident that the authenticity, rarity, and symbolism of natural diamonds will continue to shine through.

Published on: Monday, September 08, 2025, 06:00 AM IST