Food Review: Concu In Mumbai Will Make You Fall In Love With French-Style Dessert
What started as a small made-to-order cake boutique by Swati Upadhyay and Chef Sahil Taneja in Hyderabad has steadily grown into a popular café brand across Hyderabad and Bengaluru. Mumbai marks its newest chapter, and perhaps its most ambitious one yet.
Let's be honest – how often do you visit a café because of the desserts, only to leave talking about the food instead? Or worse, enjoy a great meal but skip dessert because nothing on the menu feels exciting? That's exactly where Conçu feels different. Hyderabad's much-loved patisserie recently arrived in Mumbai after 14 years, bringing not just its signature pastries but an all-day café, cocktails, specialty coffee and a menu that quietly experiments without trying too hard.
Where old-world charm meets a modern café
What started as a small made-to-order cake boutique by Swati Upadhyay and Chef Sahil Taneja in Hyderabad has steadily grown into a popular café brand across Hyderabad and Bengaluru. Mumbai marks its newest chapter, and perhaps its most ambitious one yet.
Located inside a charming colonial-era building on Colaba's Pasta Lane, it is spread across nearly 2,700 sq. ft.. The space has been designed by Essajees Atelier, blending the building's colonial bones with warm contemporary touches. Exposed brick walls, layered seating, wooden finishes and plenty of natural light make the café feel inviting rather than intimidating.
By afternoon, it's calm enough for coffee meetings or slow lunches. As evening sets in, the lights dim, the cocktail bar comes alive and the entire mood shifts effortlessly into a lively dinner destination.
A menu that borrows from everywhere
The food menu comfortably jumps across cuisines without feeling confused. French influences sit beside Asian flavours, while familiar comfort dishes receive subtle twists.
Chef Rakesh explains that fusion has always been part of Conçu's identity. "We've always mixed cuisines – Indian, Mexican and now Asian influences as well. We wanted the food to pair naturally with our drinks while keeping the dishes lighter, so people can comfortably eat, drink and spend time here."
One dish that immediately stands out is the Jackfruit Haleem. Originally created exclusively for the Mumbai outlet, the vegetarian version cleverly replaces the traditional slow-cooked mutton with jackfruit.
"Since many diners in Mumbai prefer vegetarian food, we thought – why not recreate haleem using jackfruit?" Chef Rakesh says. "We kept experimenting until we achieved a texture and flavour that still reminds you of traditional haleem."
The experiment genuinely works. Creamy, rich and equally comforting, the haleem comes surprisingly close to the texture of its meat counterpart. Served alongside soft flatbread, it delivers familiar Hyderabadi flavours while carving its own identity.
The Textures of Carrot with Burrata takes a more refined route. Creamed, roasted and dehydrated carrots are paired with fresh burrata, toasted baguette, candied walnuts and orange segments. The result feels fresh, creamy and lightly sweet without becoming overly rich.
Meanwhile, the Shrimp Roll with creamy herb-dressed shrimp tucked inside a buttery New England-style roll, accompanied by salted fries and kewpie mayo, offers satisfying bites.
The Namjin Fried Rice, topped with a sunny-side-up egg, feels almost home-like. Made with jasmine rice tossed in Namjin sauce and chicken, it isn't aggressively spicy or overloaded with flavours. Instead, it's simple and comforting that pairs well with the overall menu.
Cocktails that don't overcomplicate things
Unlike its other outlets, Mumbai is also Conçu's first café with a full-fledged bar, adding another layer to the experience.
Bar Manager Neeraj Mewada says the idea was simple. "None of our other cafés have a bar. So for Mumbai, we wanted cocktails that feel approachable rather than intimidating."
The Conçu Colada combines coconut fat-washed tequila, coconut water and Licor 43 Crème Brûlée. Depending on how you sip it, the drink changes completely. Through the foam, it's creamy with gentle sweetness; through the straw, the tequila becomes far more overpowering.
The more intriguing drink, however, is Sip The Salad. Inspired by a watermelon-feta salad, the cocktail blends vodka with clarified watermelon, feta, saline and fizz. Refreshing, lightly fruity and savoury all at once, it feels unusual without becoming gimmicky.
Coffee remains an equally important part of the café. The Miso Caramel Cold Brew balances bold coffee with creamy miso caramel, adding just enough sweetness without masking the cold brew beneath.
The Tiramisu Latte delivers stronger espresso notes than expected. Creamy but not overly sweet, it feels closer to drinking coffee with hints of tiramisu rather than the other way around.
The desserts remain the biggest draw
Despite the compact food menu and bar programme, Conçu's vast dessert offering remains the strongest identity.
"We started as a patisserie," explains Pastry Chef Neha Mistry. "Everything really grows from there. The desserts continue to be at the heart of what we do."
Unlike most cafés where desserts simply appear as another page on the menu, Conçu encourages guests to walk up to the pastry counter before ordering.
Neha says she's noticed something unusual since opening in Mumbai. "People actually leave their tables to browse the dessert counter. They decide visually what they want to eat instead of reading a printed menu. That's something we rarely see."
Among everything sampled, the Classic Opera is an easy win for chocolate lovers. This gluten-free dessert layers almond sponge, coffee buttercream and dark chocolate ganache into a rich yet surprisingly balanced pastry. Despite its multiple layers, it never feels overly sweet or heavy.
The Apricot Tres Leches cleverly reimagines Hyderabad's famous Kubani ka Meetha. Vanilla sponge soaked in milk, apricot compote and cream come together to create something lighter and far less sugary than the traditional dessert while still retaining its essence.
The Mango & Coconut Choux Bun, meanwhile, showcases Conçu's pastry expertise beautifully. Crisp choux pastry gives way to creamy coconut filling before ending with a burst of fresh mango purée that adds sweetness to every bite.
Final verdict
Conçu arrives in Mumbai carrying the reputation of one of Hyderabad's most loved cafés, and thankfully, it doesn't rely on that reputation alone.
The food experiments mostly land, the cocktails remain approachable, the coffee programme is dependable, and the desserts continue to be the biggest reason to visit. If there's one thing that sets the café apart, it's how naturally everything fits together – you could come for lunch, cocktails, coffee or pastries without any one aspect feeling like an afterthought.
If you're only planning one thing here, save room for dessert. Chances are, you'll find yourself standing at the pastry counter long before the bill arrives.
Location: 2nd Pasta Ln, Railway Colony, Apollo Bandar, Colaba, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400005
Cost for two: ₹2000-₹2500
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