Travel Diaries – Jaipur: A bag of surprises

Travel Diaries – Jaipur: A bag of surprises

FPJ BureauUpdated: Friday, May 31, 2019, 03:38 PM IST
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The thrill of visiting the Rose Pink City keeps my spirits up, despite the thought of the long bus ride from New Delhi to Jaipur. I am pleasantly surprised by Rajasthan Tourism’s arrangements, as the bus is comfortable and the pit stops en route clean with good food and toilet facilities.  It is another matter that the AC in the bus conks out quite early in the journey but there again I am in for a surprise, as the bus conductor hands me back a full refund for the inconvenience caused, after taking back my ticket.

Jaipur was founded by and named after Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh, the ruler of Amber, in 1727.  It was as a welcome gesture to Queen Victoria and Prince Albert that the city was painted pink in 1876 and gained itself the nomenclature of the Rose Pink City.  It is clear that many of the big hotels choose to blend in, so during my stay, I notice that several of the major hotels, bear the colour scheme of the palaces.

Speaking of palaces, there is no dearth of them.  My first pick is the Amber Palace and Fort, which looks imposing, as our car drives up towards this sandstone and marble structure. Whilst the intricate wall paintings, studded with precious stones, and the frescoes are eye-catching, the most fascinating part is the Sheesh Mahal.  This is where the famous scene from Mughal-e-Azam, of Madhubala dancing defiantly to the tune of “Pyar kiya toh darna kya”, has been shot and I experience a sense of timelessness. From wall to ceiling, the hall and verandah is studded with mirror tiles and one understands that the idea of the design is for the whole hall to light up, with the light of a single ray reflecting in all the mirrors.

On the other side of the hill is the Jaigarh Fort, constructed by Jai Singh II as a Fort of Victory.  Built of red sandstone, the walls of this fort are dominated by watchtowers, from where it is possible to take a peek and get an idea of the security that was in place.  At one time, the place served as a cannon foundry and I get a glimpse of the Jaivana, the world’s largest cannon on wheels. Interestingly, this cannon has never been fired, as unsurprisingly, the fort was never captured!

Since I have purchased a ticket that gives me the opportunity to catch several of the sights, I squeeze in a visit to the Albert Hall Museum. I am surprised to find that the structure bears a resemblance to the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, which it has actually been modelled upon.  There is so much to see here from intricate metal, ivory and lacquer work to jewellery, textiles, carvings, pottery, musical instruments, costumes etc.  I stop when my feet can take no more.

I opt for a showing of the Sound and Light Show at the City Palace, which is called off on account of a private function.  Yet, the guides are good enough to show me around and I get a glimpse of the blend of Rajasthani and Mughal architecture, highlighted in fairy lights, as also the Museum and art gallery.

Round the corner from the City Palace, is the Hawa Mahal, which is probably Jaipur’s most recognised leitmotif. Though most of the windows have now been blocked and the hawa no longer goes through, it is exciting to climb some of the floors to take a peek through the open windows, at the city outside.  Legend has it that this palace and its quaint small jharokas, which overlook the old city, were built for the royal ladies to be able to look out, without being observed.

The Jantar Mantar, with its astronomical structures, is unique and now bears a UNESCO World Heritage tag. But undoubtedly for me, the greatest thrill is the visit to the stepwell called Chand Baori, for which my friends and I travel out some distance.  Located in the Abhaneri village of Rajasthan, it was built over a thousand years ago.  My excitement is palpable when I come to know that this is where the very tense early shots of “Batman Returns,” were done.  Though we are not allowed to go down the steps, it is lovely to hear its history. Built somewhere between the 8th and 9th centuries, the 3500 steps are in perfect symmetry, as they descend 20 metres to the bottom of the well.  Though not in use, it has become world-renowned as India’s largest and deepest stepwell.  Built and named after King Chand of the Gujara Pratihara clan, it is an architectural marvel.

I leave Jaipur with a sense of awe, at the vision and planning of the Rajput kings of yore.

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