Mumbai – The Woolmark Company brought together six renowned fashion designers from India and Pakistan who showcased key looks for the upcoming season, inspired by luxurious, lightweight Merino wool fabrics.
Designers Nachiket Barve, Rajesh Pratap Singh, Rahul Mishra, Troy Costa, Gaurav Jai Gupta and Pakistani designer Omar Farooq each presented a collection at the JW Marriott Mumbai Sahar that highlighted the versatility of the trans-seasonal fibre and reflected each designer’s personal aesthetics.
Nachiket Barve, known for intricate surface details in his clothes presented a collection called Tulipmania, inspired by the delicate flower, said “Merino wool as a fibre has been inspiring my work over the last few seasons consistently. I got a chance to work more closely with it during my nomination for the International Woolmark Prize. The versatile Cool Wool fabric has been reimagined for eveningwear and occasion wear through this collection, in a way that’s glamorous yet sensual. The concept was best exemplified with stunning showstopper Aditi Rao Hydari’s outfit.
Gaurav Jai Gupta showcased wool with an interesting array of blends. He said, “It all started with American travel and art photographer Trey Ratcliff’s images from Tokyo as a reference point. Hand-woven fabrics have been developed in merino wool, monofilament silks, cotton, zari and stainless steel. The collection – Mumuksha consists of separates for both women & men along with sarees.”
International Woolmark Prize 2014 – Womenswear Winner Rahul Mishra’s collection was inspired by metamorphosis in life. Speaking about his collection – the ‘Fourth Dimension’, Rahul commented, “The Fourth Dimension is an essential tool to revisit the past through Merino yarn and human hands in a world ruled by technology, and fight the constant time and space to look into the future – to preserve the unseen hand of the skilled artisan who painstakingly beats technology to infuse individual hand skill in creating a couture expression of the fourth dimension.”
Rajesh Pratap Singh, known for his understated designs presented a simple yet flawless collection highlighting the fluidity, drapability and versatility of Merino wool. “Oversized silhouettes are predominant in the collection and many garments are reflective of traditional Indian costumes but with a modern twist and relevance for today’s man. There are tunics in grey reds and oranges that add a burst of color to the otherwise indigo palette. The ubiquitous white shirt and tunic also find their place in the collection.” Rajesh remarked.
Popular celebrity designer Troy Costa (famous for dressing Prime Minister, Mr. Narendra Modi) presented his collection inspired by La Bella Figura. Literally meaning the good impression, it was marked through “structured silhouettes of bespoke tailoring”, as Troy mentioned. The multi-talented entertainer Ash Chandler opened the show, mesmerising the audience with his soulful voice. Additionally, Bollywood actor Vidyut Jamwal walked the ramp for the designer, embodying the Troy Costa signature look.
Pakistani menswear designer Omar Farooq, renowned for creating super-stylish looks for the current heartthrob Fawad Khan, unveiled ‘Oriental Opulence’, a collection of embroideries, jacquards, knitting, embellishments and printing to create rich textile, bringing traditions to contemporary fashion. Commenting on his collection, Omar explained, “Taking contradicting forces and realising their complimenting nature; toying with negating dynamics, to create harmonising effects; meshing together the disconnected to breed a connection – Oriental Opulence is an attempt to look for divinity amongst the earthly.”
The Designer Collaboration Showcase also focused on the Make in India concept, highlighting the journey of Australian Merino wool to the weavers, manufacturers, brands and designers in India – from farm to fashion.
“The idea behind the designer collaboration showcase was to highlight the intrinsic yet not well-known aspects of wool – lightweight and trans-seasonal – and also present it in a very contemporary and stylish look,” said The Woolmark Company Country Manager for India, Arti Gudal.
“The conceptualisation of wool has always been with knitwear but our efforts continue to bring dynamic innovations and trending styles to the fibre. The work of all the designers is an amalgamation of the Indian and international sensibilities, highlighting the Make in India concept and has defined Merino wool as a fashionable and trans-seasonal fibre perfect for any occasion”
