The FDCI India Couture Week which recently concluded in Delhi saw the likes of our favourite designers presenting their best on the ramp. From hand-embroidery to the use of traditional Indian textiles, an underlying purpose of engaging, employing and empowering artisans is seen in the collections.
Taking inspiration from their adventures across the globe to travels in India and from nature to the true spirit of femininity, the designers have plenty in store for the Indian bride.
Work in progress
Diverting from the trend of celebrity showstoppers, Tarun Tahiliani broke with tradition and closed the show with an anonymous model who donned a simple but stunning ‘work in progress’ white tulle gown paired with a dainty net mask.
The mask covers the face of the person with the intent to emphasise the outfit and the craft and workmanship that has gone into its making. The idea behind this was to shine a bright spotlight on the garments, that were truly the show-stoppers for the evening.
Inspired by his recent trip to Monaco and his childhood memories from a home in Uttar Pradesh, designer Rahul Mishra’s couture collection showcases a dense play of florals, blended with architectural elements. Two- and three-dimensional hand-embroidered surfaces have been created with Swarovski crystals and silken threads, and the choice of colours lends the outfits a vintage charm.
Bringing to light the wonderful architecture of the human and plant anatomy, ‘LUMEN’ by Amit Aggarwal is a celebration of the unique light that illuminates us and makes us the individuals that we are.
The womenswear collection features sculpted Edwardian bustles, dramatically structured trails and sheer drapes and layers. We see three-dimensional hand embroidery on the jacquards, silks and handwoven geometric textiles that are part of the menswear collection.
Gaurav Gupta’s collection takes inspiration from endless waves and aims at decoding the human anatomy in fluid assemblage - from voluminously wide to tiered to perpendicularly slim and narrow silhouettes. Birds, wings, feathers, flowers and waves in pastels ranging from silver grey, tea green, rose wood, soft violet and lilac come together to create ensembles that personify ‘Wearable Art’.
Return to renaissance
Shyamal and Bhumika travelled to the birthplace of the Renaissance cultural movement to explore inspirations for their collection. We see a blend of Indian tones with vintage tones in the sensuous cholis, shararas, kalidaar paneled lehengas, trendy shoulder baring blouses, structured jackets, saris in sheer organzas, asymmetric hemlines, signature cowl dresses, trailing kalidaars, exquisitely crafted veils, peplum tops, poet sleeves, georgettes and translucent tulle that comprises ‘The Renaissance Muse’ collection.
Wonders of Varanasi
Reflecting the culture found in the ghats of Varanasi and the traditions of India, Sulakshana Monga’s collection showcases embroidery techniques with the use of nakshi, dabka, sequins, Swarovski crystals, ghungroos, feathers, raffia and lace. The opulent collection features vibrant hues, bringing out the best of our Indian heritage.
Sparkling in Swarovski
Juxtaposing iconic European construction with classic Indian styles and embroideries, ‘Bloom’ by Tarun Tahiliani exemplifies the modern Indian aesthetic. The collection features diverse embroidery styles – from Kashmir-inspired Kashida to Jammevar and Resham thread embroidery. Floral motifs combine with French knots, tulle, jaali burned in the fabric, lace and ombré beading, which add drama to the outfit. Striking Swarovski crystals adorn customised crinolines for each lehenga.
From Jaipur, with love
With lehengas juxtaposed into red-carpet-worthy gowns and asymmetrical layers cascading into long, sweeping trails, ‘Bonjour Amer’ by Falguni Shane Peacock helps you escape the ordinary and celebrate the extravagance of Jaipur’s eclectic landscape. In vivid shades of Spanish vanilla, prism Tuscan gold and midnight blue, the coll-ection is a blend of eccentricity and elegance.
Reflecting serenity and modernity, ‘The Savannah Saga’ by Reynu Taandon showcases the fusion of traditional embroideries with modern satin bodices. The satin and chanderi fabrics in powder pastels like lilacs, old rose, mint greens are embellished with mirror work and gold laser cuts.
Touch of fancy
Suneet Varma’s couture collection, ‘Amara’ features pleats, ruffles, layers, feathers and embellishments. A blend of loud tones and subdued hues, we see florals making their way in this bridal collection as well. We like the touch of fancy that the designer adds to each of his creations, ensuring that the bride makes a mark on her big day.
Pankaj & Nidhi inaugurated their collection ‘Mosaic’, inspired by the decorative art form which flourished during the Byzantine empire. Three-dimensional, hand-cut appliqués and inlay work with metallic fabric biscuits have been rendered on translucent tulles and satin organzas, which are seen in quarried greys, citrine yellows and sapphire blues as well as modernistic molten gold and silver.