V V Sundar captures the history behind the ongoing ‘Jewels of India: The Nizam’s Jewellery Collection’ exhibition
An intimidating high security prison like door at the entrance, a dark chamber with discouraging number of security personnel and constantly gazing CCTV cameras over the visitors. As you enter the room, obviously, you can’t miss the sense of unusualness of the occasion. Spotlights focused on glass cases displaying some of the most precious gem stones, glittering gold, and sparkling diamonds and a room filled with babble that would only grow intense, while moving from one exhibit to the next.
Well, this is the glimpse of the past in all its shimmering glory for you at the Nizams’ jewellery exhibition curated for public display at the National Museum in New Delhi. It is a “never seen before” moment for many visitors, gawking at the jewellery and regalia in all its splendour. The sheer weight of the jewellery and precious stones adorned by the erstwhile Nizams so nonchalantly as displayed in the mono-chromatic photographs, will perhaps give you a sense of the scale and heft of their wealth in the yesteryears.
Wealth of the kingdom
The Nizams were caught in the cross hairs of the geo-politics and made choices that didn’t pay off. And there in lies the intrigue and mystery that dogged their wealth and quandaries. The Asaf Jahi dynasty, familiar to all by the title of its representative, the Nizam, owes its origin to Mir Qamaruddin Chin Qilij Khan, better known as Asaf Jah-I. This dynasty ruled the State of Hyderabad in Deccan for seven generations (1724 – 1948). It was one of the leading princely states in India. The area of the dominion was equal in size to Italy.
The treasures of Golconda and the Deccan region has been legendary. The Golconda mines were the sole suppliers of diamonds to the world till the beginning of the 18th century. Many famous diamonds which adorn the crown jewels across the world came from these mines. The ‘Orlov’, ‘Darya-I-Noor’, ‘Regent’, ‘Florentine’, ‘Great Mughal’, ‘Nizam’, ‘Sancy’ are a few examples of famous diamonds mined in the Deccan – the dominion of the Nizams. Geographically, the Golconda area for diamond mining stretched to parts of Andhra Pradesh and Karnataka during 16-19th Century.
Ornamental statements
The Nizam and the princes would wear ceremonial regalia to attend official function. In addition to the sarpech, a turra of gold wire, a distinguished ornament worn only by members of the royal household used to be worn. Princes often wore a smaller sarpech, the turra as well as necklaces, armbands and belts. Only high-ranking officials would wear the turban ornaments. The crown jewels constituted exquisite pieces and large gemstones as head ornaments for the head-dress an important component of dressing of the princes. Some of the exquisite pieces and large gemstones were used as head ornaments. The sarpech signified power and hierarchy.
The neck would be adorned as the occasion warranted, with an assortment of necklaces; a kanthi, a padak marvareed and finally, a har murassa (a necklace). The achkan (coat) would have jewelled buttons, a pocket watch in addition to the baglus (belt) on the waist. Important officials and members of the royal household would wear jewelled baglus on formal occasions, ornamented with large gemstones attached to the woven gold belts.
In the early 20th century, as pocket watches became a fashion statement in Paris and London, the styles also caught the eye of Indian royalty and they incorporated it in the ceremonial regalia. The upper arms would be adorned with three armbands, the bhujbands, bazubands and navaratna bazubands, and the hands would have dastbands (bracelets) and the rings.
The Nizams enjoyed heavenly treasures and worldly comforts and pleasures. His Exalted Highness (H.E.H) Nawab Sir Mir Osman Ali Khan, the last Nizam, is remembered for being the staunchest ally of the British in India. The Nizam made a gift of diamond jewels, including a tiara and necklace, to Queen Elizabeth on the occasion of her marriage and it is still worn by the Queen and is known as the Nizam of Hyderabad necklace.
The Nawab refused to submit to the Indian state, during British withdrawal. He finally surrendered to the Indian army in 1948. He was appointed to a ceremonial position of Rajpramukh. The stature of the Nizam reduced in 1956 when his dominion was trifurcated during the reorganisation of Indian states on a linguistic basis. The Nizam then took retirement with three wives, 42 concubines, 200 children, 300 servants and aging retainers including a private army, according to some estimates. Apparently, he provided pensions to some 10,000 dependents of his former empire.
Saving the collection
After his death in 1967, the progeny feud started. The descendants claimed their share and wanted to sell the jewellery to international bidders. However, the government of India intervened and termed it a national treasure. After two decades of negotiations a deal was struck, government of India acquired the collection in 1995 and the descendants were paid. The jewels include the mind boggling, 185-carat Jacob diamond, that the Nizam apparently used as a paperweight. In today’s world some estimates suggest the jewellery is worth Rs.50,000 crore.
Our uncaring attitude towards the country’s legendary wealth is troubling. With so many treasures lying unaccounted for in various trusts, temples and mutts, it is important to systematically list the countries enormous heritage, jewellery traditions, craftsmanship, design, aesthetics and safeguard them for the coming generations to relish for posterity.
(The writer is a communications consultant, travel writer and heritage geek)
