AJAY KAMALAKARAN FINDS COLOMBO A MICROCOSM OF ALL THAT SRI LANKA HAS TO OFFER.

Most visitors to the 'Emerald Island'bypass the capital altogether and head straight for the beach resorts in the south or the ancient and heritage cities upcountry, but Colombo has plenty of attractions on offer and is a nice way to see, feel and taste the essence of Sri Lanka.

A year and a half after the end of a 26- year Civil War, an air of relaxation greets the visitor to the ocean- side capital of the country.

While there is a construction boom underway in the city, Colombo remains a city of leafy lanes and small heritage bungalows. At the heart of the city is the Cinnamon Gardens area, with its stately mansions and colonial homes and the famous Viharamahadevi Park. The central park of the city was built by the British and is famous for its large Buddha statue and series of fountains.

Also in the vicinity of the park is the Town Hall, a 1920s building that oddly resembles the Capitol in Washington DC. The buildings gardens are a starting point for rallies, which proceed onwards to the Independence Square, an area, which has a resemblance to Beijings Tiananmen Square. To get a glimpse of the countrys history and heritage, hop over to the National Museum, an 1877 heritage building that has exhibits from the Anuradhapura and Polanaruwa kingdoms as well as a great collection of colonial paintings of the country.

Those interested in the heritage trail will find many a well- preserved colonial building in the Fort area. Now that the war is over, photography is allowed in the area; although the citys excellent harbour is off limits to visitors.

The pulse of contemporary Colombo lies in the commercial district of Pettah. Here multilingual and multicultural Sri Lanka comes to life. Tamil Kovils, Buddhist Viharas, Churches and Mosques stand within metres of each other in busy streets, where commercial activity commences as early as 5 am. As is the trend in many parts of India, 'Kolaveri Di'seems to be a hot favourite in the streets of Colombo.

Amidst these bazaars is an array of small eateries, where the diverse cuisine of the island is available. Sri Lankans love their chillies and even Tamil food such as masala dosas and vadas tend to challenge the Indian pallet.

Another busy commercial area is the Galle Road, which has more upmarket shops and boutiques. A nice place to cool off after a long day in humid Colombo is 'Barefoot,'a trendy destination where Fab India meets Prithvi Cafe. The shop has an excellent collection of Sri Lankan handicrafts, books and designer clothes and fashion accessories, to go with a cafe, where Jazz is the preferred music and the house wine is as good as anything thats imported. Despite the fall in the Indian Rupee, the currency is still stretchable in Sri Lanka, when you convert the prices.

The place to be at sunrise and sunset in Colombo is the Galle Face Green, a lawn and ocean- facing promenade. Like Marine Drive in Mumbai, this is an ideal place for people- watching. Joggers, kiteflyers, gypsy fortune tellers, navy men, loafers, young, old, rich, poor, the Galle Face Green has it all.

While the Indian Ocean temptingly invites the visitor, the beach is rocky and swimming is strictly forbidden.

To swim in Colombo, you have to travel a few kilometres south from the Galle Face Green to Mount Lavinia, a beautiful locality with a nice stretch of beach. The ocean tends to be rough in Colombo but this beach is safe for swimming on most days. Unlike urban beaches in India, Mount Lavinia beach isn't flooded with small stalls, but there are a few nice beachside eateries that tend to be on the pricier side.

The real charm of Mount Lavinia, lies away from the beach and in its small and charming lanes. These lanes are a reminder that peaceful existence is still possible in some cities. In one such lane, this writer heard gentle tunes from a guitar coming out of a white- washed house, which glowed in the moonlight from a starlit Sri Lankan sky.

Could Juhu have been like this in the 1960s and 70s? One can only wonder! Facts for the Traveller Other Attractions: The Buddhuist Kelaniya Raja Maha Vihara Temple and the Seema Malakya on Beira Lake. The new and old Kathiresan Kovils are also worth visiting.

Nearby Places of Interest: Thanks to a new southern expressway, the beach resort of Hikkaduwa is just 30 minutes away from the capital.

The heritage city of Galle is 1 hour away from Colombo.

Sundowners: Cocktails at the Galle Face Hotel are a great way to start the evening. Another bar with awesome views is the Harbour Room at the Grand Oriental Hotel.

Visas: An electronic travel authorisation can be obtained online for a 30- day stay ($ 10) in the country.

This facility is also available at the Bandaranaike Airport in Colombo, but there is a surcharge.

Flights: The cheapest way to get to Colombo is from Chennai, with the sector being among the most competitive in the world.

Hotels: Guesthouses around Kollapitiya in Galle Road offer rooms with tariffs starting at around US$ 10. For those who want to live it up, the best upmarket hotels are the Mount Lavinia Hotel and the Galle Face Hotel, both of, which offers discounts if booked in advance.

The author is a travel writer and blogs at http:// ajayinbombay.

blogspot. com