JAISALMER SITS ANCHORED TO THE DESERTSCAPE LIKE A DREAM CITY CONJURED UP FROM A THOUSAND AND ONE NIGHTS, WRITES UDAY K. CHAKRABORTY.

Jaisalmer is still that enchanting destination which is always in the priority list of avid travellers. Built in the twelfth century, it seems to have changed little since then. Atop the Thar desert in western Rajasthan, Jaisalmer sits anchored to the desertscape like a dream city conjured up from A Thousand and One Nights.

Sitting on a rocky outcrop above the desert, Jaisalmer is enclosed completely in a high stone wall five km in circumference. The citadel of Jaisalmer has survived the assaults of time, retaining its haughty bearing as it looks out over the vast expanse of the desert, like a lighthouse, or as though still awaiting the caravans that brought it wealth. A filigree of ochre sandstone and exuberant ornamentation, the havelis, or mansions, recall the wealth of the Marwari merchants who controlled the flourishing trade in spices, silk and indigo.

Centuries ago it had been a prosperous way station on the Silk Route linking India and the Far East to Asia Minor. With their fortunes the rich merchants and the local kings of Jaisalmer built a magnificent fort- city of yellow marble and sandstone, each structure exquisitely carved - from the humblest shops to the most splendid temples and palaces. Then, following the advent of the railroad and the rise of the shipping trade near the turn of the nineteenth century, an end was brought to the prosperity of the camel caravan trade. But while the rich merchant families deserted Jaisalmer, the citys architectural glory remained behind.

Although Jaisalmer is fairly small and a place one would not mind wandering around getting lost in, for more systematic sightseeing a guide can be useful. But plan your itinerary to cover some of the important sights in early morning or just before sunset. Only when viewing the magnificent sights in the golden rays of morning or evening sun, you would understand why the fort is called Sonar Kella or the Golden Fort. Interestingly, it was a name given to the fort in a super hit Satyajit Ray film based on his novel of the same name in early 70s. Indeed, as acknowledged by Rajasthan Tourism, Rays film popularised the destination like nothing else.

Thus began our day early next morning at the Gadisar Tank outside the city walls. The light was beautiful as the local women arrived with brass pots balanced on their heads to fill with water. Built around the edge of the lake at the Gadisar Tank are a handsome main gate, ornately carved temples and shrines with steps leading to down to the water. Until recently, the tank played a vital role in the life of the people of the people before water was piped to the city. Even the royal household visited the tank on special occasions. During the dusk the most unforgettable moment is to take a dazzling golden panoramic view of the fort- city from a distance down below where hundreds of memorial shrines also remind you of those days of valour of the Rajasthans past.

In between we visited the Havelis or " palaces in the air", the most magnificent buildings in Jaisalmer. The havelis are the houses that once belonged to the richest merchants and politicians in jaisalmer, thus the extraordinary fine craftsmanship displayed. Carved in yellow sandstone and bedecked with exquisitely filigreed balconies, some of these havelis are still maintained as residences. At the Dean Nathamal ki Haveli, we were allowed to view the interior. The rooms were filled with paintings and colourful stone and glasswork reminiscent of some of Indias Mogul palaces.

The Salim Singh Haveli ( also called Moti Mahal), which is still partially lived in, was once the residence of the prime minister of Jaisalmer and was built around 1830. Look carefully at the stone gallery on top; the many cupolas that form the roof are each carved in the shape of peacocks.

After seeing the havelis we entered the gigantic castle walls to see the Royal Palace and throne. Impressive though they are, they faded in importance once we beheld the Jain temples, of which there are eight in number. The intricacy and beauty of the stone carvings on the interior of the Jain temples were unbelievable.

Built between 5th and 16th centuries the temples contained breathtaking carvings of Jain deities, warriors, animals as well as sensuous dancers and female lovers.

Overwhelming as these carved wonders may be, travellers to Jaisalmer will also love the atmosphere and sense of destination, which this town possesses.

Immediately outside the castle wall, there is a colourful market.

The hustle and bustle of the women in vermilion saris, the men in yellow and orange turbans and the camels and the ox- carts transporting goods to and fro across the dusty ground makes one feel that little must have changed since the Medieval days.

Now picture these scenes taking place in an elevated enclosed city where every doorway, window, balcony and column of every house is so intricately carved that seen up close one would think they belonged to a palace of some magnificent ruler. Special Interest: Desert Festival, usually organised in offers a bonus of colourfully decorated camels and other animals, with rustic activities and cultural events.