LIKE MANY EUROPEAN CITIES, BRUSSELS HAS THRIVED DESPITE MANY VICISSITUDES INCLUDING TWO WORLD WARS. THE RESULT IS AN UNUSUAL RICH TAPESTRY OF ACITY, WELL ENDOWED WITH GOOD FOOD AND GOOD ART, WRITES UDAY K. CHAKRABORTY.

Dear Friend", wrote Victor Hugo, " Brussels continue to amaze me". The author lived on the superb Grand Place, whose Gothic Town Hall and Maison du Roi ( Kings Place) and Guild Houses in Italo- Belgian Baroque style make it one of the worlds finest squares.

Not surprisingly, Brussels is a fastpaced modern city of 1.2 million people that had to resort to widespread destruction of the old in favour of the new. There are skyscrapers, traffic problems, and broad avenues with underpasses and overpasses. A part of the city is not modern, what is not is frankly medieval, and of that, happily much remains.

Grand Place is the historic heart of Brussels and irresistible magnet for everyone. It does not matter whether you see it for the first time by day or by night, as you would return again and again during your stay. First time we just wondered around it to get the general feel. Then we went back a second time for serious sightseeing on a Sunday - when it was doubly colourful with bird and flower market.

The Town Hall is unquestionably the most beautiful building in Brussels. And, in the night, bathed with light, it is simply spellbinding.

The building is considered a symbol of the citys freedom and it is rated as one of Europes finest examples of fifteenth century architecture.

The Grand'Place was a prosperous market place in the Middle Ages, when it was known as the Grote Markt. Splendid old Renaissance guild houses, with facades ornately decorated in gold, line the square, its noble fifteenth- century Gothic Hotel de Ville in the south- west facing the palatial eighteenth century Maison du Roi, now the principal museum ( Musee Communal) Wandering through the narrow, cobbled streets leading to the Grand'Place is another charming pastime here. The streets bear quite medieval names, reminiscent of the market that was held there: Bread Street, Pepper Street, and the Little Street of the Butchers.

A hundred meter from the Town Hall stands the famous bronze statue of Mannekin- Pis. This impudent little boy reliving water is considered symbolic of the citys irreverent spirit.

Among the other international stars born in Belgium is loveable bunch of comic strip characters including Tintin, Milou, Asterix and Obelix.

These characters of the " ninth art" now have their own museum, where children of all ages feel at home.

Brussels'other major sights could be covered on foot in a day. We started from the Church of Notre- Damedu- Sablon. This fifteenth Century church is an outstanding example of late Gothic architecture. It also houses numerous frescoes and bus reliefs depicting the Belgian royal family and the tomb of Peter Brughel, the great Belgian painter.

A clue to the Belgian character can be found in Flemish art. The greatest Belgian artists are the Brughels', elder and younger; Hans Memling; and peter Paul Rubens. And the world these men portrayed - the peasant simplicity of the Brughels'lusty canvasses; the mysticism of Memling; and Rubens deft combination of things of the spirit and things of the flesh - reflect and aspect of life in Brussels and the attitude of its residents.

Naturally, we had to spend a full day in Musee d'art Ancien ( Museum of Old Masters).

A leisurely walk from Notre- Dame to the imposing Pal lace de Justice, we halted at the Royal Palace and Parc de Bruxelles - which in fact is a huge garden laid out in the formal French manner. Majestically situated near the centre of the city, St. Michaels Cathedral is citys most important ecclesiastic masterpiece, with its impressive tapestries and glass windows.

Close to it and the only challenge to its lofty structure, is the Palais de Justice.

It is larger than St. Peters in Rome, dominating Brussels from the summit of the one- time Gallows Hill.

From its high cupola - we lost count after 500 steps - you will have an unforgettable view of the city.

After all these serious sightseeing, it was time for a little change of pace.

Atomium and Bruparc provided the perfect counterbalance. Atomium, in a northern suburb of Brussels, was the symbol of the 1958 World Fair. It represents the molecule of a crystal of iron magnified 165 billion times.

There is an elevator takes you to various spheres that contain exhibits on the peaceful use of atomic energy.

At the foot off the Atomium, Bruparc provides fun and excitement all year round. Theres the Village - in Old Brussels style, life - size with restaurants, shops and lots of playgrounds.

Theres the Oceade - with swimming pools and water slides.

Theres Kinopolis - a gigantic cinema complex with 24 theatres, and IMAX movie theatre with 600 square meters screen. The most interesting of them all is the Mini- Europe - 350 magnificent scale s of architectural wonders of the European Union.

Like many European cities, Brussels has thrived despite many vicissitudes including two World Wars.

The result is an unusual rich tapestry of a city, well endowed with good food and good art - two passions that most Belgians share. Galleries St. Hubern, just north of the Grand'Place, is the oldest shopping arcade in Europe and has been a fashionable promenade since it was built.

There are elegant shops and famous restaurants. Just one visit to any one of these restaurants would make you a follower of Belgian culinary expertise. But, if you are in a hurry, just buy lots of " pralines", the famous Belgian chocolate with a variety of fillings. When these sweet little things melt in your mouth you will surly have that true filling of the perfect bliss.