EXOTIC THERE IS MUCH MORE TO THIS BEAUTIFUL INDONESIAN ISLAND THAN SURFING AND PARTYING, ACCORDING TO AJAY KAMALAKARAN

Bali has long been stereotyped as an island that Europeans flock to in large numbers to avoid severe winters and take in some sun, sand and surf, before partying away.

When the Indonesian Government invited me to visit the island, such images played on in my mind. Three days on the enchanted isle, however, completely removed these false impressions.

The islands raison d'être is of course the white sandy beaches that border the azure Indian Ocean ( Indonesian Ocean if you believe some of our friends on the archipelago), but the Balinese are nothing like their counterparts in other touristy parts of Southeast Asia. Highly spiritual, the islands inhabitants consider themselves fierce guardians of Hinduism in Indonesia. The Balinese are even against high- rises as they don't want any buildings to be higher than temples.

Every home on the island has its own temple, but the Balinese are particular about undertaking regular pilgrimages.

Nowhere is this more visible than the large cliff- side temple of Uluwattu, one of nine key directional temples on the island. The Shaivite Temple was built in the 10th century and is one of the most important pilgrimage sites for Balinese Hindus. The 15th century Javanese priest Dwijendra, who is credited for assimilating the various sects of Hinduism on the Indonesian archipelago, attained samadhi in the temple.

Every evening just before sunset, there is a performance of the Ramayana by the Kecak Fire Dancers. Needless to say that Hanuman is the most popular character in the play amongst Balinese and foreigners alike. The islands only species of monkeys have a free reign of the temple compound and behave as badly as their cousins in the Jhakku Temple in Shimla.

Keep a stick handy! Another temple in spectacular surroundings is the Tanah Lot, which sits atop an offshore rock, which is being continuously shaped by the tides of the ocean. The temple, which is open throughout the day, is believed to be guarded by sea snakes, who keep both intruders and evil spirits at bay! Pura Batoh, an additional temple in the compound on a " gate" formed by the ocean, is not a place for the faint of heart or vertigo- sufferers to visit.

On the base of the islands highest volcano, Mount Agung, is the Besakih group of temples, which are considered the holiest on the island. When this writer questioned a Balinese priest about the danger of an explosion from Agung destroying the temple, he spoke about a major eruption in the 1960s that killed 2000 people but spared Besakih. " Such is the precision of Lord Shivas destruction," the priest said. The best time to visit Besakih is before sunrise as Mount Agung is visible and the early morning rays of the sun light up the spires of the temple.

The islands second largest volcano Mount Batur is visible on most days till the late- afternoon. Batur is also considered holy by the Balinese, who make daily offerings to pacify the resident god in the volcano. It takes about three hours to climb to the top of the volcano and a presunrise trek is well- worth waking up early in the morning. The adjacent Lake Batur is the largest volcanic lake on the island and is as blue as the ocean. If you want a great view of the lake and the volcano without the hard work of an early morning trek, the Lake View restaurant is a good option over breakfast or an early lunch, but beware of the loud tourist hordes that are bussed there by 1: 00 pm! Balinese homes and temples have gardens that are landscaped in a unique style but there are traces of Japan and Korea in them. While the Hindu/ Indian influence is the strongest on the island, there is an East Asian finishing touch creating a beautiful finished product. The community leaders in the islands villages welcome visitors to visit some of the islands elegant houses. The Balinese have a tremendous eye for beauty and consider the whole island to be one big garden. " Our job is to just look after the land like custodians," says Cok Bagus, a travel consultant, who stays in a village near the islands peaceful capital Denpasar.

" So we need to make sure that our homes, temples and gardens are suitable enough for the gods, who own everything in Bali." The island has an abundance of white sandy beaches ( even the airport is right on the ocean). Kuta Beach, being near the airport, is the hub of tourist activity and has hotels to suit most budgets, while Nusa Dua, which hosted the just- concluded ASEAN summit, has some of the pricier resorts. Those looking for a peaceful beach should head to the Jimbaran Bay Beach, which is developed but not yet overdone with resorts. If you absolutely must try your hand at surfing, the Sulaban Beach, near Uluwattu, is your best bet to get lessons from Australians and Californians. Whichever beach you end up choosing, be prepared to get blown away by some absolutely mesmerising sunsets.

A perfect Balinese holiday would entail taking in some of the islands nature, spirituality and culture and lacing it with just enough time by an idyllic beach.

The author is a travel writer and blogs at http:// ajayinbombay. blogspot. com Facts for the Traveller: Visas: - 30- day visa on arrival ($ 25) available at the Bali International Airport.

To avail of the facility, first time visitors need to either show a confirmed hotel reservation or a personal invitation from an Indonesian resident.

Flights: - The cheapest way to get to Bali is to fly on Air Asia via Kuala Lumpur.

Malaysia Airlines also has great deals to the island.

Hotels: - Guesthouses around Kuta offer rooms with views with tariffs starting at around US$ 35. There are hotels to suit every budget, but a beachside luxury hotel is still good value with rates starting from $ 100 a night.

Temple Visits:- The inner sanctum of the islands temples are off limits for tourists. Hindus on a pilgrimage are allowed inside but need to make arrangements in advance.

Food:- While the Hindu Balinese are not vegetarian, the island has good, spicy vegetarian food and there is a chain of Indian restaurants called the Queens Group. Non- vegetarians must try the Babi Guling, spit- roasted suckling pork stuffed and infused with a spicy concoction involving turmeric, coriander seeds, lemongrass, black pepper and garlic.

Theres also a variety of rice and spicy curry combinations.